Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,197   Posts: 1,531,423   Online: 812
      
Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 56

Thread: Oriental VC

  1. #21
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,822
    I would be very suspect of anything shorter than two minutes for FB paper, and in fact as I mentioned I don't like anything shorter than 3. 5 is better but I get impatient. Of course exposure has to be adjusted accordingly, and do mind the safelight. Even with a tested safelight my prints spend the majority of that time face down.

    RC papers can usually get by with 90 seconds but I tend to use 2 minutes. For one thing, longer times mean less variability from error. If you have trouble lifting the edge of the print with tongs, for example (I use tongs) and give it an extra 15 seconds messing around with that, this is 25% more on a 1 minute development time, but 1/12 or 8.33% more on a 3 minute time, which will never be noticed. The 25% often will.

    I use LPD 1+2 for neutral tone papers and Ilford/Harman WT 1+9 for MGWT FB.

  2. #22
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    350
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    I have tried the newer Seagull paper and wasn't particularly impressed with the results.

    Tom
    I hope you won't mind me asking what was wrong with it. I'd like to get some ideas for uses before ordering.

  3. #23
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    350
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Huub View Post
    I normally develop the Oriental paper in a 1:7 Neutal WA developer for 3 minutes, whereas i used 2 minutes for the Ilford and Agfa papers.
    Unfortunately, I am, for the most part, limited to Eukobrom and possibly Dokumol. Of course, with most things in my area, it's limited, but inspires the extra learning necessary to get decent results.

  4. #24
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    350
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Augied View Post
    I just recently tried out the Oriental paper. I've been a loyal Ilford user for a while, but the student price on Oriental from B&H was too good not to at least try it. I'm very impressed so far. The contrast is different, but I split-grade print so after a bit of adjustment, I seem to be able to do everything that I could with the Ilford paper. I think the paper itself may actually be a bit heavier than Ilford.

    If the prices were the same, I'd probably stick with Ilford, although more out of loyalty than any significant difference in quality. As it is, I'm switching to Oriental for as long as the price hold up.
    Ilford has been my first choice for film and paper. I like their dedication, quality, and variety. Their products have, for the most part, done me right! I am trying to branch out a little and experiment with what looks best for a given shot. Having heard about Oriental for years, I thought it might be time to try them out. Thanks for sharing!

  5. #25
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    350
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I would be very suspect of anything shorter than two minutes for FB paper, and in fact as I mentioned I don't like anything shorter than 3. 5 is better but I get impatient. Of course exposure has to be adjusted accordingly, and do mind the safelight. Even with a tested safelight my prints spend the majority of that time face down.

    RC papers can usually get by with 90 seconds but I tend to use 2 minutes. For one thing, longer times mean less variability from error. If you have trouble lifting the edge of the print with tongs, for example (I use tongs) and give it an extra 15 seconds messing around with that, this is 25% more on a 1 minute development time, but 1/12 or 8.33% more on a 3 minute time, which will never be noticed. The 25% often will.

    I use LPD 1+2 for neutral tone papers and Ilford/Harman WT 1+9 for MGWT FB.
    Thanks for the tips! It's always great to read the comments and advice, as so much can be learned from them. I'm using RC paper, and with the MGIV, my development times run about 60-90 seconds. I'm thinking baout trying the Oriental in FB Cooltone, as I prefer neutral to cool, especially for much of what I shoot. I noticed that the longer times lead to warmer prints, which is somewhat offset by developing in Eukobrom.

    I like your point about time and the percentage of change, it drives home the importance of procedures and attention. That's why shooting, for instance, for 10 minutes development of film seems to improve my negatives. This means with Delta 100, 9 minutes in dilution b and with HP5+ it means 10 in Dilution h.

    As I mentioned earlier, I plan to test my "safelight" when I print again to ensure it really is safe. I hope to print tonight and have better results.

    Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience!

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    South Norfolk, United Kingdom
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,872
    Images
    62
    I'd have to check my notes but I recall the results being "muddy" in contrast terms. The paper is not made by Oriental in Japan, but is some variety of rebrand or custom make. For a general purpose variable contrast paper Adox MCC is very good.

    Tom

  7. #27
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,822
    Not if you want cold tones (and I like MCC 110 a lot, but...) MCC 110 is neutral to very slightly warm and changes color only very slightly in selenium. MGIV starts out looking so similar they are hard to tell apart untoned (I've done side by side testing) but changes color considerably more in selenium so it's a better choice if you want cooler tones.

    MCC 110 is an excellent paper, though.

  8. #28

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    South Norfolk, United Kingdom
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,872
    Images
    62
    Roger,

    I have found cold tones can be rather elusive, unless via the gold toning route. Ilford makes a coldtone RC paper which is effective, but sadly no fibre base version.

    Tom

  9. #29
    Patrick Robert James's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    252
    Images
    35
    Oriental VC is very good paper. I would rate it a touch above Ilford MGIV but that is because I like to ferrotype prints sometimes and I have never been successful ferrotyping Ilford. Oriental VC has good shadow separation as well which I like and the highlight separation is good too. I have an easier time getting delicate highlight to print well on it.

    The project The Way (to Nowhere) on my website is printed on Oriental VC. For those negatives I found it to be the superior paper over Ilford and Fotokemika.

  10. #30
    Roger Cole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Suburbs of Atlanta, GA USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,822
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    Roger,

    I have found cold tones can be rather elusive, unless via the gold toning route. Ilford makes a coldtone RC paper which is effective, but sadly no fibre base version.

    Tom
    True. They also don't make the RC version in sizes larger than 11x14.

    In another thread about cooling MGWT FB Moersch SE6 developer was recommended as giving, depending on dilution, a neutral or even cold tone with that warm tone paper. Might be worth a try for cold tones on other papers.

    The thread is here but you'll have to read a lot or do a thread search to find that developer discussion:

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/8...iscussion.html

    BTW I mentioned MCC 110 being slightly warm and not cooling much in selenium because I thought someone in this thread was looking for a neutral to cool paper.
    Last edited by Roger Cole; 04-30-2013 at 09:17 PM. Click to view previous post history.

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin