Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,888   Posts: 1,520,733   Online: 1104
      
Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 56

Thread: Oriental VC

  1. #41
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    Not if you want cold tones (and I like MCC 110 a lot, but...) MCC 110 is neutral to very slightly warm and changes color only very slightly in selenium. MGIV starts out looking so similar they are hard to tell apart untoned (I've done side by side testing) but changes color considerably more in selenium so it's a better choice if you want cooler tones.

    MCC 110 is an excellent paper, though.
    I'm not familiar with MCC. But based on what you say, I don't think it would work for many of my photos. I will, however, have to check it out for portraits.

  2. #42
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    I'd have to check my notes but I recall the results being "muddy" in contrast terms. The paper is not made by Oriental in Japan, but is some variety of rebrand or custom make. For a general purpose variable contrast paper Adox MCC is very good.

    Tom
    That's the same thing I'm experiencing with the Foma. I will try the Foma without the developer integrated and see if that solves my issue. I'm sure it's not the paper, though, as I've heard nothing but good about Foma.

  3. #43
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    BTW I mentioned MCC 110 being slightly warm and not cooling much in selenium because I thought someone in this thread was looking for a neutral to cool paper.
    That would, of course, be me.

    For most of what I'm shooting now, cool to neutral is what I'm looking for. It seems to add something to the scene, rather than a sense of nostalgia. The sense of ascendency from the cooler tone is suited to old abandoned castles and distance shots of things during the evening hours, at least to my eyes!

    Thanks for all your help and sharing!

  4. #44

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    850
    Quote Originally Posted by kintatsu View Post
    I'm using a red light of relatively low intensity. I just tested it by placing a coin on the paper, and leaving it sitting out for a minute.
    Just to confirm. This red light is red, not dark-orange, and that it is a safelight not a random red light-bulb.

    To do a fairly certain check try the following. ...

    With ALL lights out, expose a strip of paper under the enlarger to something that will give a very light grey colour when developed. Turn on the "safe"-light. Cover half of the width of the strip length ways with a piece of black paper. Place four coins overlapping the printing-paper and black paper -- this setting up should be done in a few seconds and in the brightest working are of the darkroom. After two minutes remove one coin, repeat until all the coins are gone, then do a last two minutes. Develop/stop/fix/wash the paper.

    By comparing the covered and uncovered sides of the test strip, and the locations of the coins, it will be easy to see if there are any visible shapes whatsoever. If the piece of paper is not perfectly even in tone then the darkroom is not safe. Reasons could be light-leaks, un-safe safelight, or even indicator lights on electrical sockets etc. The test starts on a "grey" tone in order to get above the threshold of the paper.

    When you sort things out so that ten minutes is ok (five times two minutes) then you can be confident that normal efficient paper handling will not give a problem, and then test for longer!

  5. #45
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by MartinP View Post
    Just to confirm. This red light is red, not dark-orange, and that it is a safelight not a random red light-bulb.
    No, it is red. Definitely not orange, or dark orange.

    I'll try your test the next chance I get to print something up.

    Thanks for sharing that good advice, and for detailing the procedures. It sounds like the way I did it wouldn't give accurate results, so I was wasting my time!

  6. #46

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    San Clemente, California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,057
    Quote Originally Posted by kintatsu View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the Galerie. Does it have a good neutral to cool tone?
    Varies with developer. I am currently processing it in Legacy Pro Eco Pro, an ascorbic-based developer, which gives the "hint of warmth without green" that I've come to prefer. In Neutol NE it's fairly neutral. I've used Moersch SE-6 to cool Multigrade FB Warmtone so it's completely neutral. Haven't tried SE-6 on Galerie, but would go there next if seeking neutral-to-cool images.

  7. #47

    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,475
    Kentmere Fineprint gives superb cold tones when developed with amidol and gold toned. I've never been able to get a true cold tone with MCC, though it is a lovely paper in many other respects.

  8. #48
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Sal Santamaura View Post
    Varies with developer. I am currently processing it in Legacy Pro Eco Pro, an ascorbic-based developer, which gives the "hint of warmth without green" that I've come to prefer. In Neutol NE it's fairly neutral. I've used Moersch SE-6 to cool Multigrade FB Warmtone so it's completely neutral. Haven't tried SE-6 on Galerie, but would go there next if seeking neutral-to-cool images.
    I haven't tried any of those, and they don't seem to be available in my location. I have heard of Moersch, so I might look into ordering some. Thanks for the information!

  9. #49
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by DREW WILEY View Post
    Kentmere Fineprint gives superb cold tones when developed with amidol and gold toned. I've never been able to get a true cold tone with MCC, though it is a lovely paper in many other respects.
    Kentmere papers are ones I've heard good things about. Amidol is hard for me to get, as is gold toner. I was looking into getting some gold toner to try on fiber prints when I can get some enlarged.

  10. #50
    kintatsu's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Bavaria, Germany
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    349
    Images
    2
    I've just ordered a box of the Oriental VC. As soon as it gets in, I'll be trying it out, and let you know what I find. Thanks, everyone, for all the help and information!

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin