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  1. #51
    clothesontheline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesantacruz View Post
    ... LED's might be fine, although they might fog your image (make it have a gray tone overall)... i think for this purpose the LED's might be fine, try to look one in the correct spectrum if not,you'll probably be fine.
    What do you mean by correct spectrum?

    Quote Originally Posted by mesantacruz View Post
    even in .0xx mm makes a difference, although a general exposure of 10-30 seconds is fine, testing each one before hand would be best, but time consuming. you can have the kids test one, but it might take to long, although a quick development will be fine.
    Do I just cut back on all the times except for the developer?

  2. #52
    clothesontheline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simonh82 View Post
    Get larger trays so you can develop several images at a time. Garden seed trays may be a good alternative.
    Do you have experience using this type of tray? I'm considering purchasing 3-4 of these http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/p...-trays-inserts because they are cheap compared to other "developing trays" because of the size; I can get 3 for $12 or 4 for $13.50.. or maybe http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ping_Tray.html

  3. #53
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clothesontheline View Post
    What do you mean by correct spectrum?



    Do I just cut back on all the times except for the developer?
    As for spectrum, almost all light sources emit light over a range of frequencies (aka a spectrum). We perceive those different frequencies as different colours.

    The materials we use in a standard darkroom are quite sensitive to some colours of light, and not very sensitive to other colours of light. A safelight is a light that emits a colour of light which most papers in the darkroom are not very sensitive to.

    So when you look at the specifications of a light-source you hope to use as a safelight, you check what the central frequency is of the light emitted by that light-source and, if you can, how sharp the cut-off is of that source. Then you compare that information with the specifications for the photographic paper you are using.

    Most papers here in North America are designed for use with a light filtered by something like a Kodak OC filter. That has a peak transmission for light at about 580-590 nm.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  4. #54

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    Yes.. i should be mores specific... when exposing you picture... (you might want to test the times... a general exposure would be 10-30 seconds. When you develop the paper, those times will not change. if you get a very white negative, you might wan to try a longer exposure... so say you did 10 seconds, try 30... or vice versa.


    as for an led... as has been mentioned almost any red led will probably do.. but if you have the chance to read specifications... i believe that anything around 660nm frequency would be considered safe, so if you have the opportunity to red the specifications, and have a choice, such an led, would be the best.

  5. #55
    clothesontheline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesantacruz View Post
    as for an led... as has been mentioned almost any red led will probably do.. but if you have the chance to read specifications... i believe that anything around 660nm frequency would be considered safe, so if you have the opportunity to red the specifications, and have a choice, such an led, would be the best.
    I quoted mesantacruz, but this question if for anyone:

    I've gotten a whole lot of feedback when it comes to a "safelight" for the darkroom (developing & contact printing B&W prints on RC VC paper) from borrowing one to investing in a good one to purchasing red LEDs.

    At this point, I'm heading towards buying a cheap source of red light which will act as a "safelight".

    Here is what I have come up with so far:
    (please comment on each one as you see fit to whether it will work or not and how many I will need)

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A24U7YTI6UD0QV
    and another look at the same bulb http://www.bulbrite.com/products_en_...m-E26-Base.php

    This one looks promising: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    Something I found interesting.. is there much difference between the Satco bulb above for $3 and this "jr. safelight" they charge $17 for? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ed_Junior.html

    I think this will be too bright: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2NVEKMQTGKOW8

    And lastly, good old red and cheap LED lights: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A3TNRVM8W04X84


    Oh, and I'm still open for suggestions that don't include the above items(please include a link and/or where to obtain it)

    -Thanks so much! (the final process for overview is still to come.. tomorrow or wed.)

  6. #56
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    The CFL bulb is absolutely not suitable; it will have a significant UV component and will destroy your paper very quickly.

    The other incandescent bulbs may or may not work; unless specified as safelights they probably aren't. But might be. I wouldn't bother with them.

    Get the $2.42 bike light you listed. It will be plenty bright enough and safe enough.

  7. #57
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Don't do any of the red bulbs. OC is dark amber/brown, and none of the choices you made are brown...

    You can't tell by the pictures, but this is what you need...

    http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...ferrerid=38808

  8. #58
    clothesontheline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    Don't do any of the red bulbs. OC is dark amber/brown, and none of the choices you made are brown...

    You can't tell by the pictures, but this is what you need...

    http://www.apug.org/forums/showthrea...ferrerid=38808
    Thanks for looking, but he had already sold it.. if you think of/ find anything else let me know.

    For know I think I will stick with red LEDs.

    Polyglot, Do you think one should be enough, or should I order 2 just to be sure? I'm not exactly sure on the measurements yet but probably the average size or smaller.

  9. #59
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    I would appreciate it if someone answered my above question to Simonh82, the garden trays are very large (I assume this will be good for doing multiple prints at once).. I would reuse some tubs around my house but I don't think anything would be usable or convenient.

  10. #60

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    I never saw your question to me sorry... Since this is going to be temporary, the led's seem the way to go definitely, especially since you can actually use them for something else afterwards. I don't know if those leds are safe or not, and looking through amazon, looks like most manufacturers omit the minor details of importance to us at the moment. Since you will be doing this for fun and i think you should not loose sight of that as your main objective, the led bike light on amazon, is sufficient enough. It looks like a red casing over a white led, so i'm not sure. but what you can do, is point it away from your working area so that you get just enough light to see what you are doing. if it is still to bright, then put a white piece of paper or something translucent, so that you still get light but not as strong. Remember, your not making technically perfect pictures, and i doubt you'll get much fogging, IF ANY from this led light, as long as it doesn't directly hit your working area... Just something quick.... when i worked alone in the darkroom at school. i would put the paper in developer 1st step... and wash it... once washed for a couple of minutes, the developer is gone. so for my first practice prints, i would turn on the light or take the sheet outside to see my exposure. OF course, don't do that, but what i want to say, is don't worry much about fogging the paper. it's only for a couple of minutes, and most likely won't happen, and even if it does, it won't be noticeable.

    As for the plastic containers... those are fine, in photography, we want strong durable ones, because we'll be using them for a while, and so they become brittle over the years and eventually crack, but we'll have gotten our money's worth. You, on the other hand, only need a container for one time use... i suggest the cheapest one that can get the job done... these seem good for that... the cheaper the better.



 

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