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  1. #1

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    Anyone Doing Tri-X 320 with Pyro HD in Jobo for Alt Printing?

    I am starting to explore Tri-X 320 large format sheet film, developed in Pyro HD 2:2:100 with my Jobo CPE-2 for the purpose of making contact alt prints (e.g. Pt/Pd, vandykes, salt, etc).

    I am curious if anyone here has experience with this specific combo?

    I have read all the info I can find in the forums and online and also read the Sandy King's very detailed Pyro HD article, but can't seem to find a suggested EI and dev time for this combo.

    Any info or pointers would be great.

    Larry

  2. #2
    tony lockerbie's Avatar
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    I don't use a Jobo, but currently use TX320@ 250, and develop in Pyrocat HD for 12mins 1:1:100. This gives great negs for silver printing, just a tad thin, but just how I like them. Of course this would not be any good for PT printing.
    Have you thought of Max Pyro? I got some from Bostick and Sullivan a while back and actually processed some FP4+ in it by mistake (thought it was P-Cat HD) and the resulting negs were..er, quite dense and contrasty...perfect for PT printing I would imagine.
    I am going to do some Van Dyke Browns soon, and I'm sure this developer will give the results I need.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the reply and info. The reason why I elected to go with Pyrocat HD over PMK was because Sandy King literally designed it to work with processors and all but eliminate the common problems that were occurring with his use of PMK and a Jobo. Also, being able to use one developer for silver or alt prints is very appealing to me. I did some more research last night and found some info indicating that the dev time for silver vs alt prints should be about the same, the only difference is the dilution 1:1:100 vs 2:2:100 respectively. Short of someone replying with direct experience with the combo I have, I think I am going to go with an EI of 200 and dev time of 13 to 14 minutes. The dev time of Pyro HD is said to be about the same as PMK, according to info I found in the LF forum. I plan to test the neg with a vandyke that has a CI of .9 vs a .5 for gelatin silver prints. That should be a good test to see if the EI and dev time is on the right track. After this process is dialed in, I plan to try a darkroom print and simply just use the 1:1:100 dilution and see what happens!

    Larry

  4. #4
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    If you want negatives which print easily and correctly using Pt/Pd or salted paper, you need a film which will readily expand. Tri-X 320 is not one of these, in fact in my experience it is the poorest choice one could make. The best film I find today for such development is Ilford FP4+.
    Pyrocat HD at 3+2+100 produces beautiful negatives for the printing processes needing a longer scale such as Pt/Pd. Salt prints require the longest scale negative of all the processes and thus I urge students to make negatives for the Pd process first.
    You mentioned VanDyke Brown prints also. These do not require such a long scale and many people make nice negatives for them with the faster films such as Tri-X and HP5+.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  5. #5

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    Jim, thank you for the information. Tri-X has been my standard for LF and classic wet prints for 30 years, but producing analog negs for alt prints, as you well know, is a different ball game. I am happy to hear that FP4+ is a good fit because it is half the price of 8x10 Tri-X which doesn't hurt my feelings. I have some on order.

    Why the suggestion of 3+2+100? This deviates from Sandy's advice as a starting place, so I am curious how you arrived at this dilution when using a Jobo. I assume the 3+2 ratio helps offset the rotation issues with the Jobo?

    Any tips on how to handle high contrast scenes with Pyro HD ?

    At some point I will probably dev some 120 roll film in the jobo as well after I get the LF sheet film squared away. Any insights about processing that makes sense to share?

    Thanks.


    Larry

  6. #6
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    I have been having no issues producing negatives for Pt/Pd printing using Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 in my Jobo. I use the suggested times in the Massive Dev Chart, but I run my film at 75F instead of 68, because I can't get cooler than 75 in the summer out of my tap, and I hate playing around for half an hour or more with adding ice cubes and then waiting for the Jobo thermostat to bring the water back up and stabilize. I have used it primarily with FP4+ for a slow speed film, and Foma 200 for a medium speed film. I have yet to use it with HP5+ or Tri-X 400 for Pt/Pd prints. HP5+ will probably happen, but at current Tri-X large format prices, that's not likely.

  7. #7

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    sorry Jim...I use tri-x 320 all the time for alt process...as a matter of fact tri-x and d-76 will yield great negs for plat or azo..I use pyrocat-mc
    best, peter
    website down for maintenance!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Schrager View Post
    sorry Jim...I use tri-x 320 all the time for alt process...as a matter of fact tri-x and d-76 will yield great negs for plat or azo..I use pyrocat-mc
    best, peter
    Can you provide some details on your Tri-X 320 and D76 process for negs dense enough for alt printing? I would like to know more so I can test.

    Thanks

  9. #9
    colrehogan's Avatar
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    I have used the Tri-X 320 and Pyrocat-HD combination for pt/pd prints in the past.I would have to look up what my specific information was for Tri-X later when I get home since I don't remember off the top of my head. I have since standardized on HP5+ with Pyrocat at 1.5:1:100 for 11 minutes at room temp (I have the Jobo tanks, but no Jobo unit).
    Diane

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan View Post
    I have used the Tri-X 320 and Pyrocat-HD combination for pt/pd prints in the past.I would have to look up what my specific information was for Tri-X later when I get home since I don't remember off the top of my head. I have since standardized on HP5+ with Pyrocat at 1.5:1:100 for 11 minutes at room temp (I have the Jobo tanks, but no Jobo unit).
    Thanks for info.... looking forward to the details.



 

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