Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,206   Posts: 1,531,833   Online: 867
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    fotch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SE WI- USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,087
    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    .........................
    if your fixer isn't well spent, well it will burn out the magnet, smell bad and it will turn black.

    .....................

    good luck !
    john
    Can you elaborate on this? How much do you have to reuse it to be "well spent" ?
    How can you tell?
    How likely is it that your going to burn out the magnet?
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    889
    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    martin

    ammonium thiosphate is not used in swimming pools, it is used as fertilizer, sodium thiosulfate ( HYPO ) was used in swimming pools ...
    but not much anymore ... you may be hard pressed to find a swimming pool supply place to sell you hypo crystals.
    Absolutely right, sorry about that. I mixed up my fixers, Sodium thiosulfate is the 'old fashioned' stuff, as used by Ansel Adams etc.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    ...( used over and over ) but it will remove the silver, all but maybe 50-55 parts / million ...
    if your fixer isn't well spent, well it will burn out the magnet, smell bad and it will turn black.

    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    Can you elaborate on this? How much do you have to reuse it to be "well spent" ?
    How can you tell?
    How likely is it that your going to burn out the magnet?
    fotch, in the line above your quote John mentioned about 50 parts per million (~ 1/20 gram per liter) of silver as a lower limit on how far the "magnet" can go. So any silver content higher than this can likely be plated out.

    I've never used the Silver Magnet, but have quite a bit of silver recovery experience. The idea is that an electrolytic silver recovery system must keep it's plating current below the point where "sulfiding" occurs (this is when the plate turns very dark). Many people call this a "burned plate," although it's not really burned, it just has that appearance. Anyway, as silver is removed from the fixer, the allowable current limit gets lower and lower. If you don't know when to quit, you'll cover the cathode with silver sulfide, which inhibits further plating.

    I'm sure you won't really "burn out" the Magnet's power supply, but you could possibly cover the insides with enough silver sulfide to prevent further plating. My understanding is that the Magnet has some LEDs to indicate the status of plating, so normally there should be no problems. If I'm wrong about any of this, I'm sure John can correct me on it.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    local
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,047
    hey mr bill !

    thanks for chiming in while get accurate numbers from
    the folks that make the magnet ..

    hi fotch, mr bill is 100% right on ..
    according to the folks that make the magnet
    it requires that you have at least 100ppm ( parts / million )
    of silver in the fixer. i am sure it can run with lower concentrations
    ( above the 50-55ppm end-point ) but it runs more efficiently with high concentrations.

    as mr bill said, it won't burn out the power supply, but it will leave you with a black smelly useless cathode
    if you run it without high enough concentrations of silver in the fixer. it doesn't happen very often, but once in a while
    i get an email from someone who forgot to use spent fix, and instead used 1-shot fix ... and it rendered the magnet useless.

    there are test-strips available to see how much silver is in the fixer, but the clip test can be accurate enough.
    for film fix double the clear time and split it between 2 baths, and when it takes double the initial unused fix clear time
    it is time to desilver the fixer. make bath #2 your new bath #1 and make a fresh bath for #2 ...
    a lot of people are kind of freaked out buy using the fixer to capacity, but it is pretty safe, seeing you have a second bath that is always far from
    being spend.

    if shot fix is your thing, the whole ion transfer de-silver method might work well in your situation ... it works with low concentrations of silver ( 1 shot fix, wash water &c ).

    john
    im empty, good luck

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin