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  1. #11
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    Thanks. Interesting response -- I'm very curious why you recommend stock. Can you elaborate?
    Personably when I use Pan F for 35mm I want fine grain and the gorgeous smoothness that brings with this film particularly for skin and skies. If I wanted perceived sharpness from accutance with grain and edge affects (which is what you get 1-1) I'll just shoot something like FP-4.
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    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
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  2. #12
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    Thanks. Interesting response -- I'm very curious why you recommend stock. Can you elaborate?
    Oh and the "T4 with flash" reference was because I agree that the T4 flash seems to overexpose some. More exposure typically leads to more grain if not compensated for at development time or development technique.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Personably when I use Pan F for 35mm I want fine grain and the gorgeous smoothness that brings with this film particularly for skin and skies. If I wanted perceived sharpness from accutance with grain and edge affects (which is what you get 1-1) I'll just shoot something like FP-4.
    I've yet to see any edge effects with D76 1+1. It might be a little sharper than stock, but no edge effects, even with reduced agitation at 1+3 with the films I use, just the beginning of what seems to be a little more sharpness.

  4. #14
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aron View Post
    I've yet to see any edge effects with D76 1+1. It might be a little sharper than stock, but no edge effects, even with reduced agitation at 1+3 with the films I use, just the beginning of what seems to be a little more sharpness.
    To each his own of course. I was not overly happy sometimes with the skies or skin tones when I did 1-1 as with stock.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  5. #15

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    Try Pan F with one of the staining pyro developers if you want that "wire sharpness" kind of edge acutance.

  6. #16

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    Pan F seems to build contrast rather quickly. So it is important not to over develop it. I rate it at EI 32 and develop it in D-23 1+1.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  7. #17
    bvy
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    Thanks everyone. Lots to consider, but I'm thinking D76 stock or Perceptol stock. For the latter, Ilford gives times of 14 minutes, and 9 minutes for EI 25, so I'm deciding if I should pull it a bit early to compensate for the bright flash. Sounds like I should err on the side of underdeveloping, in any case.

    I'm also ordering more of this film...

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvy View Post
    Thanks everyone. Lots to consider, but I'm thinking D76 stock or Perceptol stock. For the latter, Ilford gives times of 14 minutes, and 9 minutes for EI 25, so I'm deciding if I should pull it a bit early to compensate for the bright flash. Sounds like I should err on the side of underdeveloping, in any case.

    I'm also ordering more of this film...
    Well before you order, make sure you like the results

    However as a big fan of PanF+ I fully support buying more


    ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  9. #19
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    The Yashica has no way of manually setting the ISO, so unless I'm missing something, you're pretty much stuck with auto exposures at box speeds (whatever is on the DX code).

  10. #20
    bvy
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    Quote Originally Posted by viridari View Post
    The Yashica has no way of manually setting the ISO, so unless I'm missing something, you're pretty much stuck with auto exposures at box speeds (whatever is on the DX code).
    Right. Short of "hacking" the cassette (scratching and taping) that's true. Anyway, I'm going back to the point that the flash on this camera is on the strong side -- and that this film especially is easy to overexpose.

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