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  1. #1
    Graham Hansford's Avatar
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    How fast to Push ILFORD FP4

    Has anybody got any advice on how far you can reasonably push Iford FP4 film with a normal developer.

    I am trying to see what I can get out of an old Zeiss Ikon folding camera and have a chance this weekend to take some nice "New Baby" photographs.

    Since we are having the usual unpredictable cloudy British winter I am trying to gauge my options on how far I can push the film. I cannot seem to find any information or data for anything above 200. I usually develop my films in Ilford LC29. I fully understand the principles of pushing but need advice and guidance on this particular film.

    Thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2

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    Graham, I've never pushed it beyond 200 and the Massive Development Chart will have the times for your chosen soup.

    May I ask with our unpredictable weather why you don't use HP5+ ? It pulls to 200 and pushes to 1600 very well in my opinion.

  3. #3
    Graham Hansford's Avatar
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    I usually do use HP5 but wanted to test this camera with a nice fine grained film. I have jumped the gun and loaded the camera, this opportunity has turned up, but unfortunately the weather hasn't!

  4. #4

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    Yep know what you mean, I looked at the Massive Development Chart and they show FP4+ souped in LC29 rated up to 200.

    For those quick changes I have a film retriever which cost just a few pounds. It means I can rewind my film and then retrieve the leader to use the film another time.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by TPPhotog
    Yep know what you mean, I looked at the Massive Development Chart and they show FP4+ souped in LC29 rated up to 200.

    For those quick changes I have a film retriever which cost just a few pounds. It means I can rewind my film and then retrieve the leader to use the film another time.
    Well that film retriever isn't going to help Graham very much. If I'm not mistaken, his folder uses 120 roll film. Graham, if you can get some Diafine FP4+ does really well with an EI of 250. Otherwise, unload the camera in the dark and use some tape to seal the paper. You can always reload it another time.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by fschifano
    Well that film retriever isn't going to help Graham very much. If I'm not mistaken, his folder uses 120 roll film. Graham, if you can get some Diafine FP4+ does really well with an EI of 250. Otherwise, unload the camera in the dark and use some tape to seal the paper. You can always reload it another time.
    Good point I saw the 35mm shooter but missed the "old Zeiss Ikon folding camera" bit in the thread

  7. #7
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    Before you decide if you need pushing try setting your meter at 500 and reading the Zone III shadows. Sometimes that helps when the scene brightness range is not too great. It's not really pushing. A narrow range scene will usually move up the scale with an average or incident light measurement, giving more toe room than you need for good prints.
    Gadget Gainer

  8. #8
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    A while back, I went out to try some street photography around early evening. I picked up a roll of Delta 3200 from my stash, and out I went. It was getting dark fast, so I decided to push it a stop and shoot at 6400 EI.

    When I got home, I unload the roll to discover it's not Delta 3200, but FP4. Here is what it can look like for nearly a 6 stop push...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A-FP4-Push.jpg  

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by NikoSperi
    A while back, I went out to try some street photography around early evening. I picked up a roll of Delta 3200 from my stash, and out I went. It was getting dark fast, so I decided to push it a stop and shoot at 6400 EI.

    When I got home, I unload the roll to discover it's not Delta 3200, but FP4. Here is what it can look like for nearly a 6 stop push...
    That looks amazing, can I ask how you processed the negs re which soup, dilutions and timings?

  10. #10
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    HC110B - 65 minutes - one agitation every 5 minutes.
    I do not enjoy printing these under an enlarger (massive understatement). Scan and tweak in PS before going digital is by far the most viable option... but it works, and that was the point, right?

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