Super Iron Out
I'm experimenting with Super Iron Out as a redeveloper in a reversal process.
Two tablesppons in 300ml of tap water, use immediately.
I've souped a strip of a 35mm Fomapan 100 classic, half exposed to daylight and half not for 4 minutes, constant agitation.
Preliminary results: at reflected light the half exposed is darker than the half non-exposed but at transmission light the non-exposed part is darker than the exposed one.
Last edited by Alessandro Serrao; 06-18-2013 at 07:59 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I've used it at once tsp per 300 mL and it works fine.
I have tried this. It works but wasn't sure about the density so I recently did the following test using Foma 100, 120 roll. I made exposures at 100, +1/2, +1. I developed in Suprol 1+4 for 6 mins. After bleach and clear I split the reversal part. The first 3 frames were exposed to light then second development and the next 3 with Iron Out, two teaspoons in 400ml water.
When I was doing the development the light reversal strip developed blacks very quickly. With iron out the development took longer and whilst the film was wet the blacks looked less dense but when dry there was not much between them.
I have enclosed scans, I know this brings in other variables but it was the same parameters for both strips.
I have been experimenting with Foma 100 since last year and although it works quite well I am not happy with the density of the images compared to other films. I do not have the technical knowledge but think maybe it is not the best film for reversal. I found that rating it at 400 with longer development time gave slightly better results.
I also now think that light reversal may be the way to go. I always thought it seemed a bit vague, uncontrolled and open to inconsistencies but seems to gave the clearest slides.
Your scans both look very neutral in colour tone. Did you scan them greyscale or desaturate? I wonder, as some say they get a warmer or browner slide with Iron Out.
Originally Posted by richyd
Both look good, with the Iron Out being only slightly darker (from the posted scans). Have you tried increasing the hypo in the 1st dev (or whatever silver solvent you might use) a touch, to compensate?
Alex. I don't quite understand. Did you develop, bleach and clear before the Super Iron Out? Super Iron Out reduces all silver halide, whether exposed to light or not (well, I as I understand!).
Originally Posted by Alessandro Serrao
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@mr.datsun: I only souped the strip in Iron Out bypassing completely all reversal steps. This to assess if Super Iron Out could reduce all AgBr. But it seems there's a difference whether the film is exposed or not.
Tonight I've carried out my second attempt as follows:
1) Ilford Pq Universal 1+5, 10 min, +0,7g hypo anh, Kodak agitation style;
2) dichromate bleach, 3 min, constant agitations;
3) sulfite clearing (25g/lt), 2 min, constant agitation;
4) Super Iron Out, 2tsp in 300ml, 6min constant agitation;
For a Fomapan 100 classic exposed at 100 the DMax is finally there, although it's not going to make you scream. The highlights are quite blown up.
Diagnosis: overdevelopment and/or overexposure.
@richyd: I must agree with mr.datsun. Your slides are quite good. I just prefer your Iron Out process because the black are richer (for what I can see from a scan). I, however, must agree with your findings about the low DMax that the Fomapan 100 yields. It's probably inherent to the nature of the beast because also David Wood of dr5.com explicitly warns against using Fomapan 100 classic in his line.
Last edited by Alessandro Serrao; 06-19-2013 at 09:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: My english sucks!
It would depend on how you want your reversals to be used. If you project develop less and the highlights will not blow. When you scan, you need a scanner with a high dmax.
I find the foma100 curve natural for reversal. I do not use any silver solvent and am very pleased with the results. This might be your highlight issue.
Get it right in the camera, the first time... My flickr
I realise I made a mistake with the notation of the scans. The exposure label should read minus not plus so the last frame is under exposed by 1 stop. I can't change the post now.
@mrred. Yes, I am pleased with the results the tonal range is good and neutral. I scanned as greyscale. Another complete film I developed came out slightly yellow but a short fix in weak hypo cleaned it up. I don't use any halide solvent, every time I have experimented with that I get blown highlights and/or thinner blacks. I have just got some potassium thiocyanate and will experiment with that.
@alessandro. My process is similar to yours but no hypo so developent time is shorter. I got good quite results at 8 mins but found the blacks a little too light and reducing to 6 mins works better. I used Suprol, a P&Q developer, because I had bottle and it is cheap.
I use dichromate bleach at 4g/ltr. Even with this concentration the film leader is almost fully clear in 1 minute. Total time 1' 30". I think the emulsion is quite thin and have found it bleaches very quickly.
@richyd: good info! I use 10gr/lt of dichromate and 10ml/lt acid and use 3min standard bleaching time. I will try reducing the dichro amount and the time as well as omitting the hypo in the first dev and reducing its time accordingly.