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  1. #31
    viridari's Avatar
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    The golf balls are from over agitation. Try experimenting with stand development. Process the HP5+ in a 1:100 solution at 20C. At this dilution you're going to want about a liter of solution to make sure you've got enough Rodinal in there. Ever so gently swirl for 20-30s. Then just let it sit for 30 minutes. Then more very gentle swirls for about 5 seconds. Then leave it alone for another half an hour.

    Try that as a starting point with a test roll, let us know if it's not remarkably better.

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by viridari View Post
    The golf balls are from over agitation. Try experimenting with stand development. Process the HP5+ in a 1:100 solution at 20C. At this dilution you're going to want about a liter of solution to make sure you've got enough Rodinal in there. Ever so gently swirl for 20-30s. Then just let it sit for 30 minutes. Then more very gentle swirls for about 5 seconds. Then leave it alone for another half an hour.

    Try that as a starting point with a test roll, let us know if it's not remarkably better.
    I'm sorry but this is not good advice. Stand development is just not good. And the grain will still be pronounced. I'm not even sure there is a connection between shaking and grain size.

  3. #33
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NB23 View Post
    I'm sorry but this is not good advice. Stand development is just not good. And the grain will still be pronounced. I'm not even sure there is a connection between shaking and grain size.
    Totally agree.

    Ian

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    . . . So, onward to considering the example shot you provided, why not just step closer to your subject? . . .
    Good point and one I've tried in the past.

    There's two main reasons. Any closer and I start entering their space and I/they begin to feel uncomfortable. Secondly, because (especially with such a sensitive subject) I like to show the whole and include some of their 'world' in order to emphasise and bring awareness to their situation.

    If I shoot head and shoulders, it comes out as 'look at this guy, he's dirty/bad teeth/tatty clothes' etc . . .
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ming Rider View Post
    Good point and one I've tried in the past.

    There's two main reasons. Any closer and I start entering their space and I/they begin to feel uncomfortable. Secondly, because (especially with such a sensitive subject) I like to show the whole and include some of their 'world' in order to emphasise and bring awareness to their situation.

    If I shoot head and shoulders, it comes out as 'look at this guy, he's dirty/bad teeth/tatty clothes' etc . . .
    A few thoughts.

    First, a longer lens could mitigate the grain some too, anything that makes the subject larger on film.

    Second, talk to your subjects, get to know them a bit, tell them what you want/why, and ask permission.

    Third, offer a couple bucks or something in return for taking the photo.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  6. #36
    viridari's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NB23 View Post
    I'm sorry but this is not good advice. Stand development is just not good.
    Speak for yourself, please. My experience differs.


    Awwwww by magnus919, on Flickr
    Last edited by viridari; 06-23-2013 at 10:09 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: adding an exhibit / fixing link code

  7. #37

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    Laws of physics versus internet hype spread by newbies that never printed a single picture.
    But if I was speaking only for myself I'd have over 20,000 rolls of experience to back me up. I'm also not sure what a picture of a bunny proves, anyways.

    I have 3 questions for you:
    -Do you print yourself?
    -Do you agitate your prints in the developer and fixer?
    -If not, why not?

  8. #38

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    [QUOTE=NB23;1513662]
    -Do you print yourself?
    /QUOTE]

    Are you thinking of fingerprints here, or a full body print?

    Alan

  9. #39

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    The best cure for grain with Rodinal is to use something else.

  10. #40
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    Rodinal has all kinds of myths about it on the internet spread by people who don't really have experience making prints. I agree with NB23 and Ian. Stand development is a bad way to develop film, especially if you going to print it the traditional way. You can do just about anything if you are scanning it however, which is how I think these myths get promulgated. People make all kinds of claims on the internet to feel special about themselves. Tri-X at 64,000! for example. Never gonna happen unless you operate under a different set of physics than a mortal man.

    Kevin, if you already have Rodinal and want finer grain while using it, I know of two ways (there are surely others): Salt and Sodium Sulfite. I have never tried the Sulfite, but I do use salt occasionally. Use sea salt or table salt without the iodine. 30g/l will do it. I have read that salt may cause dichroic fogging with modern films, but I haven't experienced it yet. You may also lose some film speed with the salt FYI since from what I understand the salt acts as a restrainer. Maybe Ian can shed some light on that. Salt is a good option for you to try since it is easy to get and it works. Good luck.

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