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  1. #51
    Ming Rider's Avatar
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    If anyone was to say to me that film was dead, I would simply direct them to APUG. With this amount of passion, how can anything be dead?

    There are a lot of good and interesting suggestions here and I thank you for all of them.

    There's something about stand development that has always intrigued me, as well as adding salt (I have no sulphite) but I've never tried it. So I'm going to conduct an experiment along the lines of what has been suggested in this thread by many of you helpful guys (and girls?) here.

    I'll shoot 24 exposures of HP5+ of the same scene, with the same light. Then cut into 4 equal lengths.

    1. Straight Rodinal 1:25, 20c, 6 min's, agitate 1st min, 10 sec's every min' after.

    2. As above but with salt at ratio of 30g/l, time, temp' and agitation kept the same in the interest of clarity.

    3. Straight Rodinal 1:100, 18c, 1 hour and ambient room temp' kept at 20c (to help maintain dev' temp'), agitate 10 sec' after 30 min's.

    4. As above but with salt at 30g/l.

    All with 3 sharp taps after each agitation. All will be stopped and fixed the same. 30 sec's stopper, 5 min's fixer, Ilford rinse method, wetting agent, dryed over night by hanging.

    What's the best way to add the salt. Does it need to be dissolved fully?

    Then 1 frame of each will be scanned on an Epson V500, no sharpening or adjustments in-scanner or PS, just straight from the 'can' and uploaded at 96 dpi and the largest file size the forum will allow.

    How does that sound?
    Last edited by Ming Rider; 06-24-2013 at 04:57 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog

  2. #52
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    testing stand developing & adding salt

    Quote Originally Posted by Ming Rider View Post
    I'll shoot 24 exposures of HP5+ of the same scene, with the same light. Then cut into 4 equal lengths.
    (...)
    What's the best way to add the salt. Does it need to be dissolved fully?

    Then 1 frame of each will be scanned on an Epson V500, no sharpening or adjustments in-scanner or PS, just straight from the 'can' and uploaded at 96 dpi and the largest file size the forum will allow.
    How does that sound?
    Sounds like an interesting experiment and a lot of fun to me. Especially testing for the differences between "shaking & standing" developing. I'm going to try this myself also, but I'll do it with Ilford FP4+. Would be nice to see if there is a difference between methods and films.
    And if we both use a Leica M5 with 35 mm or 50 mm Summicron at the same f-stop (aperture) we even minimize the "lens factor" as well.

    I read about stand developing not so long ago, but don't know where anymore. I'm going to find that book first. Maybe it was The Edge Of Darkness (Barry Thornton) or The Negative (Ansel Adams) or The Film Developing Cookbook (Troop & Anchell) or Experimental Photography Workbook (Christina Z. Anderson)?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll let you know where what was said about stand developing. If you like, I can scan the pages and mail it to you (if so, send me a PM with your mail address).

    About the salt, I have no experience with adding salt, but it seems to me it should be dissolved completely. I would heat water, add salt, let it dissolve and cool down and then add the right amount of (concentrated) salt water to the developer.

    "Have fun and catch that lightbeam"
    Bert from Holland
    http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    Last edited by TheToadMen; 06-24-2013 at 05:45 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  3. #53
    Ming Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Sounds like an interesting experiment and a lot of fun to me. Especially testing for the differences between "shaking & standing" developing. I'm going to try this myself also, but I'll do it with Ilford FP4+. Would be nice to see if there is a difference between methods and films.
    And if we both use a Leica M5 with 35 mm or 50 mm Summicron at the same f-stop (aperture) we even minimize the "lens factor" as well.

    I read about stand developing not so long ago, but don't know where anymore. I'm going to find that book first. Maybe it was The Edge Of Darkness (Barry Thornton) or The Negative (Ansel Adams) or The Film Developing Cookbook (Troop & Anchell) or Experimental Photography Workbook (Christina Z. Anderson)?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll let you know where what was said about stand developing. If you like, I can scan the pages and mail it to you (if so, send me a PM with your mail address).

    About the salt, I have no experience with adding salt, but it seems to me it should be dissolved completely. I would heat water, add salt, let it dissolve and cool down and then add the right amount of (concentrated) salt water to the developer.

    "Have fun and catch that lightbeam"
    Bert from Holland
    http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    Excellent idea. Obviously there's no problem with the M5 but the lens might be a problem. I have a Canon Serenar 50 1.8 (similar to Zeiss I think) and was going to shoot at f/5.6 on a tripod. We're currently enjoying a sunny day with blue skies here in the UK (yes, really), so now's as good a time as any.
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog

  4. #54
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    I think any test should include printing negatives, not scanning them. In the end it's most important to figure out what YOU like. If that is HP 5 stand developed in Rodinal so be it.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by erikg View Post
    I think any test should include printing negatives, not scanning them. In the end it's most important to figure out what YOU like. If that is HP 5 stand developed in Rodinal so be it.
    Hello Erik,
    You're absolutely right! But for now let us first try this to see if we get any "differences" in the negatives at all.
    The way we print is also an other variable to exclude in this phase: testing film developing. And scanning negatives can help (for now).
    But when the first tests seem to show that method A or B will give "better" negatives, it is certainly time to start printing
    and to see if we can translate the "better" negatives into "better" prints.
    But first things first (in my case anyway) ...
    Thanks,
    Bert
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  6. #56
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ming Rider View Post
    Excellent idea. Obviously there's no problem with the M5 but the lens might be a problem. I have a Canon Serenar 50 1.8 (similar to Zeiss I think) and was going to shoot at f/5.6 on a tripod. We're currently enjoying a sunny day with blue skies here in the UK (yes, really), so now's as good a time as any.

    Hi Ming,
    We could meet half way and shoot on the same spot simultaneously, but I'm not such a good swimmer....
    But I'll use my 50 mm lens at f/5.6 on a sunny day with blue skies as well.
    Just sent me a simple scan of your negative (or just a snapshot made with a d***l camera or phone) to show me your subject and I'll try to find a similar setting to shoot my film. It will be close enough for our empirical testing, I guess.

    BTW: also let me know how you handled the salt. I'll do the same.

    Bert
    Last edited by TheToadMen; 06-24-2013 at 08:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  7. #57
    Ming Rider's Avatar
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    Hi Bert,

    Here's a pic' of my test setup. I took the shots about an hour ago so the light has now gone to pot and there's shadows. But earlier was bright and clear.

    Just waiting on the first batch of Rodinal 1:25 to warm up.

    Good luck,

    KevClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Ming Rider; 06-24-2013 at 09:04 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog

  8. #58
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ming Rider View Post
    Hi Bert,
    Here's a pic' of my test setup. I took the shots about an hour ago so the light has now gone to pot and there's shadows. But earlier was bright and clear.
    Just waiting on the first batch of Rodinal 1:25 to warm up.
    Good luck,
    KevClick image for larger version. 

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    Nice setup,
    I'll start looking for the props
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  9. #59
    Ming Rider's Avatar
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    Yes I think printing as well would introduce another set of factors into the results, though afterwards it's an excellent idea to make a print of each.
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog

  10. #60
    Ming Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheToadMen View Post
    Nice setup,
    I'll start looking for the props
    Cheers,

    The downside of living in the country and with the wife away - I had to grab whatever was to hand. I did consider the Cats, Dogs and Horses, but they wouldn't stand still long enough.
    "All I ask for is an M5 with a fast lens, a roll of HP5 and a street to shoot her by."

    StreetPhotographyBlog



 

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