Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,970   Posts: 1,523,488   Online: 894
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 17
  1. #1
    destroya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    san jose
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    258

    help me troubleshoot my first attempts and B&W reversal

    got the itch to try and do some reversal processing. went to keeble and shuchat to buy the chems and was happy they had all of them but the acid. I did a lot of research and thought i would use iron off for the sec develop, re-exposure and fix steps as it simplifies things. but I'm thinking that could be where my problem lies. in my research many people suggested using traditional grain films and slow speed films. so i loaded up a short roll of PanF+ and shot two things with 8 exposures each starting at EI 16 and going to EI 100. followed my directions of choice and they negs all came out really really dark. you could see an image but only on a light box and still it was very dark. so i went out with another roll of PanF and a roll of Ultrafine Extreme 100 aka kentmere 100 to try another film. i stuck to the same directions to make sure i didnt mess something up the first time. with the Panf the results were the same. very dark and i assume would not project well at all. the extreme 100 on the other hand came out pretty well. since its my first time i have no idea what a proper neg would look like, but when i compare it to my control picture, one shot with provia, it seems a little darker (but could just be my perception as its black and white and not color).

    I've scanned in 4 shots to post so you can get an idea. with the Panf EI of 16, i did one with no adjustments so you can see whats there. I also re-scanned the raw scan and used a white balance color balance and it does a good job showing whats on the slide. so i would guess I could save images with some work in the scanning and PP department. But i would prefer to get it right when developing. with the extreme just the one with no color adjustments, shot at EI 40. the other is the provia shot

    my process done in a patterson hand tank

    1) first developer 12 minutes with continuous agitation in Dektol 1+1 and 7ml hypo mixture which is made up from 7 grams of sodium thiosulfate in 250 ml of distilled water. then a 2 min wash replacing water every 30 seconds

    2) bleach 9 minutes continuous agitation in a 2 part mixed 50/50 part A is 6 grams of potassium dichromate per liter and part B is 30 grams per liter of sodium bisulfate. I could't find locally any place to get sulfuric acid. then a 2 min wash replacing water every 30 seconds

    3) clear for 3 min continuous agitation in 30 grams per liter of sodium sulfite. then a 2 min wash replacing water every 30 seconds

    4) 2nd developer, flash and fix 4 min agitate first 30 seconds then 2 inversions every min in 2 tsps per liter of iron off which is mostly sodium metabisulfate and sodium hydrosulfate. then a 2 min wash replacing water every 30 seconds

    5) 1 min in photo flo solution

    so any recommendations or help would be greatly appreciated. you gotta start somewhere. I knew i wouldn't get it right the first few times but would like to get it better sooner rather than later. thanks.

    john

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	panf at 16.jpg 
Views:	55 
Size:	415.5 KB 
ID:	70944Click image for larger version. 

Name:	panflevalsScan.jpg 
Views:	64 
Size:	667.5 KB 
ID:	70945


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	xtreeme 100 at 40.jpg 
Views:	57 
Size:	775.8 KB 
ID:	70946Click image for larger version. 

Name:	proviaScan-130630-0001.jpg 
Views:	52 
Size:	722.4 KB 
ID:	70949
    Last edited by destroya; 06-30-2013 at 04:32 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,125
    for clarification: for your clearing bath, did you use Sodium sulfate or Sodium sulfite?
    (they are not the same chemical; and it is Sodium sulfite which is used in a clearing bath after dichromate bleach, I think?)

  3. #3
    destroya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    san jose
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    258
    ooops. spelling error. should be sulfite. I'll change the post

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Paris
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    70
    You should dilute less your 1st dev to get lighter positives. Surprising to see that even without acid, the bleaching is not bad !

  5. #5
    destroya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    san jose
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    258
    tokef, i am using an acid, sodium bisulfate. its an acid thats used in pools to change the PH level. its a substitute as i couldn't get sulfuric acid locally. i read several people using it with good results.

    john, the bleach is 1/2 strength with a longer time of what was recommended in other notes as I'm trying NOT to wash my image down the drain.

    as for the first dev, i thought dektol was a very strong developer and that 1+1 is a very strong dilution. what do you recommend as a dilution if any at all?

    thanks

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    6
    Dektol 1+1 is pretty strong, how much more can you develop?
    Why don't you just add more hypo to the 1st developer to make the pictures lighter?
    Thats the reason so many recipes call for hypo, the images turn out too dark if you don't use it.

  7. #7
    destroya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    san jose
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    258
    hmmm. one person says developer is to weak and another to strong.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Paris
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by johnielvis View Post
    read the post more carefully--you're bleaching TOO MUCH.
    This is nonsense. How can you tell that he's bleaching too much ? What's more his scans are too dark. He can't over-bleach anyway, since bleaching removes only solid Ag (if we ignore little complexations of Ag+ with SO4(2-) ions and others, negligeable), which has to be removed completely. And as for clearing etc., the problem here is dark film, not a matter of loss of density or else, that's really secondary here.

    First, he should achieve a lighter film. To do this : either use stronger dilution (dilute less), either increase dev time (might not be effective since you're already at 12 min), either add hypo or other silver halide solvent. You want to have less silver on your final result, so you have to remove it by one of those 3 ways.
    The last will probably work the best. I had the same problem in processing Fomapan R with Dokumol, I was already at 12 min, and increasing dilution didn't help : the silver solvent solved it for me
    Last edited by Tofek; 07-03-2013 at 05:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #9
    paul_c5x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Ye Olde England
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,423
    Images
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by destroya View Post
    I could't find locally any place to get sulfuric acid.
    Try a local auto battery supplier - Some of them should have 30% sulfuric acid for filling lead-acid batteries. Failing that, have a look for Black Swan drain cleaner or similar.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    6
    Why don't you recommend a developer, johnielvis?
    I use Dektol because it was suggested as strong on forums and blogs and was easily available.
    If there is something better to buy I would love to try it.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin