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  1. #1
    jensenhallstrom's Avatar
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    Tx 400 (tri-x) rated at 200 in d-76

    Hello, so i have seen threads on this and people give what times were good for them, but no temp info, dilution or anything whatever, its so funny, the massive dev chart gives a 25 sec difference between tri x rated at 200 and 400, the former time at 20 C being 9.5 and the latter being 9.75 at 20C i know there should be more of a time difference, can somebody help me with the experiences you have had pulling tri x to 200 or even as far as you could, maybe even at 50? Thanks.

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    Tri-X is properly rated for 400 in D-76, and that's all there is to it. But why would you want to do this anyway?

  3. #3
    jensenhallstrom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Tri-X is properly rated for 400 in D-76, and that's all there is to it. But why would you want to do this anyway?
    Because im an experimenterer. I might like the look, plus its good for contrasty sotuations i hear, theres alot more than just 400! So much more.

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    mooseontheloose's Avatar
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    Jensen,

    I'm no expert but generally speaking you'll want to reduce development by about 20% per stop pulled. There are a lot of threads on this issue, both here and on other forums. Do a search and you'll probably find more info to help you.
    Rachelle

    My favorite thing is to go where I've never been. D. Arbus

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    I guess this is another one of those things where my age seems to show. I've heard it all and seen it all with the experimenters and all that. Then a light bulb in my head goes on and I see clearly through all that. What I see is that the chemists and engineers at EK Company are second to none. I'm sure that their work is exhaustive., and they pin it at 400 in D-76. Like corn flakes and milk, they're made for each other. I take this as the definitive word.

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    MattKing's Avatar
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    You are going to run into a lot of confusing information, because some people meter at 200 to ensure extra exposure in the shadows, while others meter at 200 in order to ensure highlight density with pulled development.

    IMHO, it is better to approach the question in a different way:

    1) Choose your development based on the contrast you want; and then
    2) Choose your metering EI based on the development you have chosen, and whether you want to manipulate shadow or highlight density.

    Rachelle's advice is good for pulling contrast.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

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    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    I guess this is another one of those things where my age seems to show. I've heard it all and seen it all with the experimenters and all that. Then a light bulb in my head goes on and I see clearly through all that. What I see is that the chemists and engineers at EK Company are second to none. I'm sure that their work is exhaustive., and they pin it at 400 in D-76. Like corn flakes and milk, they're made for each other. I take this as the definitive word.
    Tom:

    Kodak gives recommendations for Tri-X at EI 400, 800, 1600 and 3200.

    And then, in their dataguides, gives recommendations for developing for lower contrast, average contrast, and higher contrast (ranging between 5.5 minutes and 11 minutes) for Tri-X and D-76.

    Which of those various recommendations should the OP choose?
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  8. #8
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
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    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

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    Not wanting to be a thread hog, I'll limit my posting to answering Matt and then stand by. To pull the speed and contrast, I would choose Microdol 1:3, and to push I'd say Acu1 or Acufine. These are legitimately well researched and quality products and they suit their purpose better than any home-grown idea.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jensenhallstrom View Post
    Because im an experimenterer. I might like the look, plus its good for contrasty sotuations i hear, theres alot more than just 400! So much more.
    So, Jensen, here's some time and temp info from the horses mouth, go experiment, make a few guesses and see what happens. http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...4017/f4017.pdf

    I do have a question though. Are you printing with an enlarger?

    If so, your prints will answer a lot of your questions as well as give you more and better questions.

    If you're not printing via an enlarger, push&pull (plus&minus) development, are largely irrelevant.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

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