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  1. #11
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwmullet
    Most negs I have are 35mm. I'm still trying to nail down a problem with one or both of my grafmatics that's keeping me from really digging in and generating more 4x5s.

    Care to outline what a contrast mask positive sandwich is? If there's a previous thread, just let me know and I'll search later and post a pointer to this thread.

    -KwM-
    Not to change the subject but what kind of problems are you having with the grafmatics? Most I've seen are due to bent septums.
    Gary Beasley

  2. #12
    kwmullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glbeas
    Not to change the subject but what kind of problems are you having with the grafmatics? Most I've seen are due to bent septums.
    I get what looks like two substantial light leaks from the long side of the image. The leak doesn't appear to extend to the film edge, and I don't think I've ever seen the problem when shooting polaroids, which I'm thinking would rule out errant bellows or flare issues, leaving the grafmatic(s). It doesn't happen on every exposure, though, and it's not uniform fogging, leading me to believe it's probably not happening when I cycle it. I did have *some* uniform fogging, but I tightened all the screws and that took care of that issue.

    When I get around to it, I'll photograph or scan one of the negs in question by way of illustration and see if the pattern looks familiar to anyone.

    -KwM-

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I'd just make a copy neg from a master print, if you want to make lots of postcards quickly. Ansel Adams also did this for his lower cost editions, so they could be printed by his assistants without any manipulations. I'll probably do it myself, eventually, if I want to make a postcard from something I've shot on a format larger than 4x5".
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #14
    rbarker's Avatar
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    Although the masking process would be an interesting exercise, it would seem to me that making a copy neg of a "perfect" print on the appropriate sized film for contact printing would be the most straight-forward, production-oriented method.

    As a distinctive alternative, have you considered gravure?
    [COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]

    Ralph Barker
    Rio Rancho, NM

  5. #15
    glbeas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwmullet
    I get what looks like two substantial light leaks from the long side of the image. The leak doesn't appear to extend to the film edge, and I don't think I've ever seen the problem when shooting polaroids, which I'm thinking would rule out errant bellows or flare issues, leaving the grafmatic(s). It doesn't happen on every exposure, though, and it's not uniform fogging, leading me to believe it's probably not happening when I cycle it. I did have *some* uniform fogging, but I tightened all the screws and that took care of that issue.

    When I get around to it, I'll photograph or scan one of the negs in question by way of illustration and see if the pattern looks familiar to anyone.

    -KwM-
    You need to double check the fit of the grafmatic in your camera, I've read that some models do not fit a standard 4x5 right and will not seat. Having never seen one of those I can't really tell you what to look for. I'm hard put to figure anything else that will do this. Good luck!
    Gary Beasley

  6. #16

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    Shoot a transparency

    Shoot a color slide choosing a subject withiut excessive contrast and print it on negative film 4x5 should make a nice postcard.

  7. #17
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    Gravure, also B&S BPFB-18 film

    Quote Originally Posted by rbarker
    Although the masking process would be an interesting exercise, it would seem to me that making a copy neg of a "perfect" print on the appropriate sized film for contact printing would be the most straight-forward, production-oriented method.

    As a distinctive alternative, have you considered gravure?

    Didn't even know what it was until I checked around. Gravure looks interesting. Have you done either copper plate gravure or polymer gravure? I don't think I've ever seen a gravure print. How do the highlight/shadow details and tone continuity compare to silver gelatin?

    While looking for gravure information, I came across a note on the main page of the Bostick & Sullivan site that they've got a new film specifically for making contact printing internegatives: BPFB-18 . Their process description at http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/main/bergger.htm looks like just what I was looking for.

    The recommend contact printing a negative onto a second piece of the same type of in-camera film, so in my case, I'd contact print my HP5+ 35mm onto another piece of HP5+ film to get an interpositive. Then, once I process the interpositive, I'd load that up in the enlarger, project it onto the BPFB-18, do whatever burning and dodging I wanted to do at that point, and develop the BPFB-18 and use that as the contact print negative for my postcards.

    A couple of things come to mind, though. Forgive the densitometric naivete, but on my original negative, the dMax is determined by the maximum density possible with my film/developer combination (HP5/Pyrocat) and the dMin is determined by base + fog, and all the tones of my original scene are compressed or expanded between the two proportional to my ability to expose and develop, right?

    Now, if I contact print an HP5 neg onto a second piece of HP5, it seems that though my dMax couldn't possibly increase, that the density of my dMin has to at least double because not only will I be contending with the B+F of my original neg, but the B+F of my interpositive as well, so even if I "underexpose" my interpositive to slide the dMin down, I'll lose density of my dMax, and if I develop longer to increase contrast, then the information in the midtones will suffer, right?

    Also, won't grain and posterization increase with each successive generation of copy, so from Negative to interpositive will degrade the image, and from interpositive to internegative will degrate it again?

    Wouldn't it be better to use as fine grain, low B+F film as possible for the interpositive?

    Hope I didn't embarass myself too much with blatant ignorance there.

    -KwM-

    [[FONT=Palatino Linotype][SIZE=4]later ammendment: I just found
    [COLOR=RoyalBlue]this thread[/COLOR]
    on BPFB-18 film, which mentions using lith film for the interpositive, and to make the interpositive quite low contrast. More food for thought and comment.[/SIZE][/FONT]
    ]
    Last edited by kwmullet; 01-24-2005 at 02:03 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Found a thread on BPFP-18

  8. #18
    kwmullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glbeas
    You need to double check the fit of the grafmatic in your camera, I've read that some models do not fit a standard 4x5 right and will not seat. Having never seen one of those I can't really tell you what to look for. I'm hard put to figure anything else that will do this. Good luck!
    Sounds like a good thing to check. Maybe I could float a couple of strips of felt between the grafmatic and the back on my Crown Graphic and see if that has any effect. I get mixed up on which mechanism is called what, but I tend to use the two sliding clamps on the grafmatic, not the spring back.

    -KwM-

  9. #19

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    Perhaps the direct negative method has been
    mentioned. A detailed account can be read at
    www.unblinkingeye.com. Dan

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwmullet
    Sounds like a good thing to check. Maybe I could float a couple of strips of felt between the grafmatic and the back on my Crown Graphic and see if that has any effect. I get mixed up on which mechanism is called what, but I tend to use the two sliding clamps on the grafmatic, not the spring back.

    -KwM-
    That would be the Graflock. I think some Grafmatics are made specifically for that and most are made to go under the spring back. See this link on the Graflex.org site: http://www.graflex.org/speed-graphic...html#Grafmatic
    Gary Beasley

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