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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Lyga View Post
    You will understand why this is called liquid gold because it seems to be THAT valuable.
    I think you mean liquid LIGHT....
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  2. #12
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Is there a reason for your choice of fibre base over gloss? Gloss usually exhibits better blacks.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  3. #13
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    Is there a reason for your choice of fibre base over gloss? Gloss usually exhibits better blacks.
    Clive, have you lost your mind? Fiber paper can be glossy too.

    'Better' blacks is a thing of taste (I prefer the black from matte paper, for example).
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  4. #14

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    I would also begin using a two part HCA bath... which at least for me and many others works rather well.

  5. #15
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    Maincoonmaniac: LOVE that CAT! but...

    Drying FB paper can be most effectively done this way, rather quickly, with a hair dryer and no curling: Dry the front thoroughly, until bone dry. Then dry the back to the point where it is merely very slightly damp. Then, with clean paper towels on the back, place the print underneath heavy books or another dead flat surface. Within one half hour you will have a beautiful, flat print. - David Lyga

  6. #16
    maarten m's Avatar
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    thanks a million for all the advice! as soon as i get my negatifs sorted, i'm of to some time in the dark ...

  7. #17
    maarten m's Avatar
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    would Amaloco H10 be a good product for economical washing? http://www.amaloco.nl/amal_nl_h10.htm

    so washing would be (in stead of 60min in slow running water):
    1. washing for 15min in slow running water
    2. washing for 10min in still water + HCA (2 pro mill)
    3. washing another 15 min in slow running water.

    would that be a god way to work?

    edit: ilford says:

    5 min of running water
    10 min of 1+4 washaid
    5 min of running water
    (all at 20°C)
    Last edited by maarten m; 07-18-2013 at 07:00 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by maarten m View Post
    would Amaloco H10 be a good product for economical washing? http://www.amaloco.nl/amal_nl_h10.htm

    so washing would be (in stead of 60min in slow running water):
    1. washing for 15min in slow running water
    2. washing for 10min in still water + HCA (2 pro mill)
    3. washing another 15 min in slow running water.

    would that be a god way to work?
    Washing what? Film or fiber papers?

    the H10 in your link is a wetting agent for film. It helps film dry evenly without streaking. If you want something to help wash fiber paper more quickly then you need something like Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent or Ilford Washaid.

    Example

    Print -> Develop -> Stop -> Fix -> Wash in running water for 5 minutes -> Wash in Hypo for a few minutes -> Wash in running water for 20 minutes

  9. #19

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    THe op was reffering to papers... as he is talking about going from rc to fiber enlarging, obviously the op did not know that it was a wetting agent...


    *** As per my above post... i said 2 part hca bath... Big mistake... I meant 2 part fixer... for example where ilford recommends say (example) 3 minutes... you would do a 1.5 minutes in fixer 1 and 1.5 in fixer 2 which would help make sure that your print is fixed correctly or fully. HCA is also an important step, and would help cut down on wash times... Also... if you are to tone in selenium... HCA is also important.

  10. #20

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