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Thread: Film Pre-soak

  1. #11
    wildbill's Avatar
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    I always do 2-3 minutes regardless of film type in my jobo. Ilford says do not for their films but out of spite I do it anyway. Tmy, no mottling. I only use distilled for mixing developers and for the final rinse.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

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  2. #12
    MattKing's Avatar
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    It seems to me that there are very few examples of manufacturers advising not to pre-soak.

    And a few examples of manufacturers indicating that a pre soak is "not required" or "not necessary".

    And a further few examples of manufacturers being silent on the issue.

    Correct me if I am wrong, but only the first means anything like "dont do it!".

    I use a pre-soak unless told not to.

    It keeps my replenished HC-110 a golden hue.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

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  3. #13
    Rolfe Tessem's Avatar
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    I don't think Kodak and Jobo actually say "don't pre-wet when using Xtol". What happened was that Xtol came out after rotary processing was already popular so Kodak did the testing and published times that were good without a pre-wet. So yes, that is the official manufacturer's recommendation because those are the tests they did.

    Prior to that, Jobo itself tested a huge number of films and recommended a five minute pre-wet in order to bring rotary development times into line with the times recommended for inversion processing with intermittent agitation. There is nothing magic about Xtol -- the same technique works with it as well.

  4. #14

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    xtol always suggested ix-nay on the soakpre-ay ..

    i usually presoak because i am bored and a creature of habit and don't ever use xtol ..
    besides sometimes i pour the AH dye into my spent developer and watch it vanish, its fun

  5. #15
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    It seems to me that there are very few examples of manufacturers advising not to pre-soak.
    Yes
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  6. #16

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    I'm sorry, T-Max RS Developer

  7. #17

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    95% of my Bridge photography is with my 3 Hasselblad 2000 FCW's I would NEVER trade them for anything.

  8. #18
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    xtol always suggested ix-nay on the soakpre-ay ..

    i usually presoak because i am bored and a creature of habit and don't ever use xtol ..
    besides sometimes i pour the AH dye into my spent developer and watch it vanish, its fun
    Sorry John:

    j109 - the Kodak XTol data sheet - is silent on the issue of pre-soaking when it comes to roll films or when it comes to small tank, large tank or rotary processing. With respect to sheet film and tray processing, j109 expressly recommends a pre-soak: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe.../j109/j109.pdf

    And for the OP, j86 - the Kodak TMax/TMax RS data sheet - is silent on the issue of pre-soaking when it comes to roll or sheet films or when it comes to small tank, large tank, rotary processing or tray processing: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...bs/j86/j86.pdf
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  9. #19

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    The problem is very complex. Kodak could not figure out the problem. I sent them negatives and sample prints. They have no idea.

  10. #20

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    Jobo started recommending the presoak when they discovered that using it allowed customers to use published times for small tank inversion development. They confirmed this with multiple films and developers. When Kodak developed (pun not intended) Xtol they tested and published time for continuous agitation that did not include the presoak. I've done TMax with Xtol in the Jobo with and without the presoak, once the process is calibrated I could see no difference. I decided years ago to stick with the presoak.

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