Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,742   Posts: 1,515,584   Online: 931
      
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: Film Pre-soak

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    New Jersey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    31

    Film Pre-soak

    I did post something similar to this sometime ago but I wanted to ask about presoak times. For a long time I am using distilled water when I use the developer. I use T-Max 400 film in formats from 35 mm to 8x10 processed in a Jobo CPP2. I generally give it one minute Pre-soak. Kodak told me all their developers are designed to work with filtered tap water, which I do have. I was getting some "Motteling" but I have not resolved that problem. Could I possibly use a 1 1/2 to 2 minute presoak and how would it effect the film? The motteling is on all formats and it follows the rotation of the Jobo drum. The emulsion IS ON THE INSIDE as it should be. It can be seen only on contact prints and enlargements and of course it happens in super clear skies without clouds. Some images can not be taken again. Any help is appreciated!

  2. #2
    cliveh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,050
    Images
    340
    This has been discussed many times here. But for my part, I have never done this and don't see the need to do it.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  3. #3
    eddie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,386
    Images
    196
    I use a 5 minute pre-soak, when using my Jobo, using distilled water. I believe it was a Jobo recommendation.

    For tanks, I don't use a pre-soak, unless I'm using a large tank (4-120/8-35mm). I do this to avoid streaking caused by the amount of time it takes to pour the developer in to the larger tanks.

  4. #4
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,936
    Kodak and Jobo specifically specify to not pre-soak film when using Kodak XTOL developer.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  5. #5
    eddie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,386
    Images
    196
    The OP didn't specify which developer he's using.

  6. #6
    PhotoJim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Regina, SK, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,219
    The only times I've found pre-soaking to be desirable:

    EP-2 print processing - I got streaking if I didn't presoak.
    Two-bath developers - I find I get more consistent results if I presoak. (Not entirely sure I should, but that's my habit at least.)

    Jim
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  7. #7
    Vincent Brady's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Co. Kildare - Ireland
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,994
    Images
    167
    Ilford advise not to presoak their Delta 400 prior to development and I never do. With any other B&W film I will always presoak.
    Vincent Brady
    "Visual art is a chase after the invisable and B&W photos remind you of this search for what can't be seen,for what's missing"

  8. #8
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    12,936
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie View Post
    The OP didn't specify which developer he's using.
    Yes, but my answer is germane to the OP/s question.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,333
    Images
    84
    It'd be useful if you posted a scan of the problem. I had a streaking problem on a few 8x10 sheets that I rolled in a Jobo. Photo Engineer said it might be lack of pre soak, or it might be due to using water as a stop bath rather than acid stop. Since then I've always done a pre soak and used acid stop and had clean film with no marks. This is HP5 in Rodinal.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Daventry, Northamptonshire, England
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    6,831
    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    Kodak and Jobo specifically specify to not pre-soak film when using Kodak XTOL developer.
    I hadn't noticed this statement so ignorance was bliss for me as I pre-soaked TMax 400 for a full 5 mins to rid the film of the dye when using Xtol. The pre-soak rid the film of the dye very successfully and I didn't notice any problems with using a pre-soak as part of the development process.

    The water in the OP's location may hold the key rather than whether a pre-soak or not is used

    pentaxuser

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin