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  1. #1

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    120 Negatives darker on the edge of frames ? What am I doing wrong ?

    Hi all.

    I've been having a problem lately with my 120 Tri-x 400 negatives. It seems that the edge of the frames are more dense and I'm not sure why. I'm assuming it is something to do with my processing procedure. I've attached a couple of examples. Can anyone tell what I am doing wrong here ? Could it be a problem with my film back? I am using a hasselblad 500c/m.

    My basic process is as follows:

    1. Tri -x 400 in Rodinal 1:50 for 12 mins
    2. Tap water rinse for stop bath.
    3. Fix for 10 mins in tetenal vario fix
    4. Wash for film for 10 mins (running water through pipe into patterson tank)
    5. Let film sit in photo-flo for 90 seconds
    6. Hang up and dry in dust free area

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Describe your agitation procedure please.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhotoJim View Post
    Describe your agitation procedure please.
    I spin the reel in the patterson tank using the little drop-in plastic handle. I twirl it slowly for the first 30 seconds and then 10 seconds every minute there after.

    Thanks.

  4. #4
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Don't do that. Put the soft plastic cap on the lid after you've poured in the developer, rap the tank on the counter firmly to dislodge air bubbles, and then invert once a second until the first minute of development is done. Then let it rest until another minute is up and give it ten agitations in ten seconds (inversion again). Continue doing this once a minute until a minute remains, then begin to pour out the chemistry when about 10-15 seconds remain.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  5. #5
    clayne's Avatar
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    1. Present on every single frame?
    2. Present *between* frames?

    If the latter, it's the camera.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  6. #6

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    I think you have a problem with your back, possibly at the dark slide slot.
    Without another back to check or confirm this...use tape on the back you have.

    With a fresh roll of film loaded into your existing back, mount the back to your camera,
    but don't advance to the first frame.
    Next, with the back attached to your body, remove the dark slide.
    Now, run a layer of black tape round the interface between the camera and the body,
    covering the dark slide slot. Shoot the whole roll. See if the problem has been solved/identified.

    This is a quick, cheap and easy method of elimination, or trouble shooting the problem.
    Probably time for a light-seal kit.

    Marc

  7. #7

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    Thank you for the suggestions everybody. I will try inverting my tank rather than using the spinner stick thingo and I'll test the film back for light leaks. I'll post back with my results.

    Regards,
    Jonno

  8. #8

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    What others have described about agitation is to eliminate "surge", or excessive development in the side areas of the images, parallel to the long edges of the film, which can be troublesome with 120 film, more difficult to avoid than with smaller film.
    But the tower image is troubling to me. If this is shot vertically, then the area at the top of the frame would not be surge, and is rather strange looking. Are these straight prints?

  9. #9

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    I had a very similar problem, just with one roll of a batch in C41. ( The other rolls did not show this problem)
    I use the Rollie C41 kit
    Taken with a Nettar folder.
    I also use the rotating stick. Maybe next time I will try inversions
    On one photo the edges of the frame are light, on the other photo it is on the end between frames.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails NettarBasketBallScaled .jpg   Lightship_Huron.jpg  

  10. #10

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    I had this identical problem with 120 roll film with a stainless steel tank and reel. I used 2 inversions every 30 seconds. When I switched to using a Jobo for film development, the problem completely resolved. For those who have had success with 120 roll film and stainless steel reels and tank, I am curious to know what inversion methods have worked for you?

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