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  1. #1
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    White borders graying

    I've been a fan of Fomabrom Varient IV 123 for some time now. I develop with Burke & Jenny homegrew developer adding 6mL of 1% solution BZT per liter. I use a 1 minute neutralizing water stop bath and 1 minute active water rinsing followed by a long minute of TF4 fixing and 10 to 30 minutes running water wash, hang to dry and move on.

    Now, I switched to TF2, for convenience sake, which I would blame for graying borders but it began while I still had TF4. While still wet the prints look good but within 12 hours the borders and highlights have grayed.

    I would blame a faulty batch of paper but it happens with separate purchases of 11X14 and 16X20.

    I would blame TF2s' Sodium Sulfite for being old but I didn't think age was a problem as long as it was white and dry, even the photograde I have.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
    Rick A's Avatar
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    Improper fixing. You need to use a two minute minimum fix or preferrably a two bath fix. I fix in TF-4 two minute in first bath followed by two minutes in second. After ten prints(8x10) I dump the first bath and move the second bath into first position and make a new second bath. I wash for five minutes in running water followed by five minutes in HCA, followed by 20 minutes in running water. The water flow should be sufficient for 12 changes per hour(one/5 mins). I havent had any problems with discoloration in 50 years of printing FB paper.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  3. #3
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Thanks Rick,

    I used to use the two fix bath method and will reintroduce it again.

    I guess you feel more comfortable using a HCA bath even with TF-4?

  4. #4
    Zathras's Avatar
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    TF2 is not a rapid fixer. It sounds like your prints are extremely under fixed.
    When the chips are down,

    The buffalo is empty!!!



  5. #5
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    I agree with Rick. That is a very short fixing time. I use Sprint Fixer and fix for 3 minutes. When I'm done printing I then mix fresh fixer and run all the keepers through this for an additional 3 minutes. I also believe your washing time is too short....

    Hope this helps.
    Shawn

  6. #6
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    You may have to consider a proper stop-bath it's likely developer carry over in the paper, the designer of TF-4 suggests using a stop bath and has seen fogging with out.

    Ian

  7. #7
    Barry S's Avatar
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    Definitely underfixing. What's the big hurry with the fixing bath? I fix fb paper for 2-3 minutes with TF-4 and wash thoroughly. Ian may have a point about the stop bath--I find a dilute citric acid stop bath is cheap, odorless, and does a nice job.

  8. #8
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Grant View Post
    You may have to consider a proper stop-bath it's likely developer carry over in the paper, the designer of TF-4 suggests using a stop bath and has seen fogging with out.

    Ian
    A good point. I also use a stop bath when processing paper.

  9. #9
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I know I don't need the fix regime used, it is 50 years of habit. I probably could do away with HCA, but if it ain't broke don't (fix) it.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  10. #10
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    DEVELOPER TO STOP

    My reasoning for not using a stop bath is that I want fiber based papers to develop to conclusion and not interfere or stop that development. I think the water bath allows this to happen where a stop bath doesn't. Perhaps I will find allowing for the water bath to do its' thing and follow that with a stop bath and rinse prior to fix will work also. The two bath fix will also be considered and HCA. I just gotta find more trays now.

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