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  1. #1

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    Why I LOve Tri-X!

    OK, I really do like Tri-X. It gives me tones that no other B&W film gives, even though HP5 is not bad. But until I started doing my own developing I never realized how good Tri-X really is. Recently I wanted to shoot a couple of lenses at wide apertures on 35mm cameras that had shutter speeds of only 1/1000 on the top end. In bright sun, a 400 ISO film and wide open don't work when you're limited to 1/1000. After trying various filters to give me the extra stops, I went another route on the next roll. I normally shoot at 200 ISO w/ a yellow filter, which means I'm effectively rating the film at box speed. This time I decided to shoot it at 100 ISO, so I set my meter to 50 ISO w/ the yellow filter. After dithering on how to develop it (some people said subtract 10% to the time, some said 20%, etc), I decided what the heck, I'll just develop it as I always do. D76, full strength, 70 degrees. Many people seem to prefer using this combination w/ the D76 mixed 1+1, I don't. Full strength gives me consistently better results.

    So how did it come out? It came out perfect! The negs look fantastic, and the grain is as tight as can be, w/ deep, luscious blacks and bright highlights. Even better, when I went inside to shoot I was having trouble w/ the film rated at 100 ISO due to the slow shutter speeds needed (camera shake, even w/ the yellow filter off for inside), so I uprated it back up to 200 ISO for the inside pics. I couldn't see any relevant difference in the negs or the scans. At 200 ISO or 100 ISO, it looked pretty much the same either way.

    I actually shoot the rebadged Tri-X when I shoot 35mm as it's so cheap. Freestyle's Arista Premium is under $3 a roll for 36 exposure. Really, really great film, and from now on I'm going to rate it at 200 or 100 when I shoot it.
    Last edited by momus; 08-03-2013 at 07:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Nice to hear your happy.
    A lot of people can/will advice other film and developer types, but I agree: in the end Tri-X and D76 is a very nice combination and suitable for many occasions.
    There are several variations possible, see for other recipes and examples:
    http://filmdev.org/recipe/search?search=d76+tri-x
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  3. #3
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    momus, that is a good example of why I rarely adjust film development and I happily switch EI's from shot to shot if needed.

    The next step is seeing where your real limits are. Can you get results you like at EI 12? How about 1600?
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #4

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    How about a link to some examples?
    flickr.com/danfogel
    Leica M2, Olympus 35RC, Olympus 35EC, Olympus Trip 35

  5. #5

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    Yaaaa, if I couldn't get HP5+ I'd jump on Tri-X in a blink!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vilk View Post
    Yaaaa, if I couldn't get HP5+ I'd jump on Tri-X in a blink!
    An either/or proposition here. Both are great films; I use them interchangeably, and keep a healthy stock of each (I buy film in lots, a legacy of Kodachrome shooting?) in my frig.
    An assortment of F-series Nikons (F to F6, excluding the F4) with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  7. #7

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    i know, i know, it's not so bad. just less silver perhaps? i could never get HP5+ shadows on Tri-X, not even rating at 250, very digi-looking... but hey, stole some great frames on it!

  8. #8
    clayne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vilk View Post
    i know, i know, it's not so bad. just less silver perhaps? i could never get HP5+ shadows on Tri-X, not even rating at 250, very digi-looking... but hey, stole some great frames on it!
    This less silver thing just needs to die.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  9. #9

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    you mean, others notice it, too?



    hey, seriously, i can die anytime you want, not much left anyway, but after thousands of rolls of each, you won't convince me they have the same speed. "less silver" is just a meme, ok? thin shadows is a fact

    peace. don't get me wrong, i didn't come here to rain on OP's parade. rather, hoping for a rally of Tri-X fanboys, er, experienced users, i wished somebody would have said, "hey, vilk, add some blackcurrant juice to the soup, say three hail marys and you'll get usable shadows..." no fun buying batch after batch, then distributing it among friends

    i'll be the first to admit i'm doing something wrong

  10. #10
    clayne's Avatar
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    Put about EI50 more of black currant light into your Tri-X juice.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

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