Scanning... Check. 35mm size film... Check. 400 ISO film... Check. Rodinal... Check.
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
You pretty much created the recipe for grainy pictures... Well besides using TMAX which is pretty fine grain for a 400 ISO film. Every one of the things cited will contribute to grain. Try XTOL with TMAX 100. Or XTOL with TMAX 400 in 120.
As many have said: Rodinal, plus perhaps underdeveloped and/or underexposed too. Scanning is not the cause. It just shows the grain more due to the other issues.
I don't believe Scanning can be ruled out - that doesn't make sense to me. Unless Rodinal IS the Magic Bullet for Maximum Grain!
Stradibarrius shows MORE grain in full frame 35mm than I get with half-frame 35mm which I developed in Dektol to deliberately maximize grain.
Here is my benchmark for MAXIMUM grain, printed optically.
From post 27 of the thread Want more Grain...!
Original is a dirty border print on 11x14 with about 1 inch borders. Negative is 35mm half-frame, 400TX exp. 12/2014 batch 1781. (Exposed at EI 200 in an auto-everything Samurai - I scratched and taped the DX code to say 200).
Developed in Dektol 1:9 68-degrees F for 5 minutes.
This crop is about 2 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches (Roughly 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch measured on actual negative). In this image, JPG artifacts are smaller than the grain, this is a reasonable approximation of the actual print.
I'm not saying scanning did not exacerbate the grainy look, it most likely did. But only because of the other factors creating the stronger likelihood that it would do so. Scanning does not automatically mean excessive grain. Just like a sharp lens does not give people more prominent skin pores.
Originally Posted by Bill Burk
When the first digital minilabs went into use their was excessive grain with some films, this was due to surface artefacts of the top gelatin layer of the Kodak films. Kodak did a lot of work to eliminate the problem using new hardeners in the emulsions, they measured actual grain size of the films and and perchieved graininess in prints.
However certain emulsions can still be affected by some developers and if you want to soften and remove emulsion Hydroxide is ideal, Rodinal/R09 contains hydroxide, enough to soften the emulsion slightly more than other developers and poor temperature control cuases micro reticulation, also called surface defects of the gelatin. This causes apparent graininess in prints and is worse with scans.
The effect has been known since the late 1920's the best way around it is to sandwich the emulsion side of film to glass with a liquid, as is done with drum scanning, Ctein wet mounts his negatives for optical printing.
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Please don't make assumptions about my process without evidence to support them.
Originally Posted by Bob Carnie
I am aware how to produce scans.
As it happens I scan without any sharpening or contrast adjustments whatsoever ("raw") and I almost never sharpen in post-processing.
However as this subject is off limits here, and not germane to the current topic, I'll leave it there.
I've used Tmax with Rodinal once. It looked worse to me than Tri-X with Rodinal
Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014
Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa
Take a chill pill dude , I could care less (how aware) you are to produce scans, I am making no assumptions. Its a known fact that sharpening at time of scan can produce artifacts and accent grain.
You need to have a cup of tea or something or grow a thicker skin.
Originally Posted by pdeeh
I thought I found a nice combination for MAXIMUM grain. But this thread challenges my conclusion.
Is it scanning? In which case I will ignore the results as irrelevant.
Or is Rodinal and TMY-2 going to give me a grainier optical print than I get with my current candidate of Tri-X and Dektol?
Rodinal shouldn't give more grain than Dektol but with poor temperature control and a few degrees change in between stages your likely to see this excessive graininess even with optical prints. It does need a films thats affected by the hydroxide though Tmax 400 and Neopan are the only two I know where it happens.