Switch to English Language Passer en langue franÁaise Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,735   Posts: 1,515,409   Online: 1093
      
Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 53
  1. #1
    schrochem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Austin,Tx
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    324
    Images
    179

    Strong Lith Developer

    Somewhere in between traditional printing and lith printing, is yet another world.
    Itís a lot of fun in my opinion. Itís a great 'normal'-ish developer in its own right but has diversity.
    If you have never done Ďnormalí lith printing this might be a bit maddeningÖ.
    There is no set development time.
    Itís more intuitive and has what is called a Ďsnatch pointí to get the sucker out of thereÖ.
    Longer, too strong; shorter, too weak.
    I have very limited use of developers so Iím interested in what the experienced have to say.
    I tweaked the Ďwholeí system to work well with this. At current, Iím shooting 35mm using ilford delta at 50 developed in rollo pyro for 7min.
    Iíve found it gives nice Ďstraightí prints with the other variables below.
    So, this is what Iím doing:
    I buy the arista powder from Freestyle.
    30ml Arista A, 25ml Arista B, 120ml room temp water.
    6:5:24
    Don't ask how I came up with the ratio....I've long forgotten....
    If I was to give it a name I guess I'd call it SLD or SLD6524
    Anyway, this is the small amount I use for 5X7 and smaller prints in a 5X7 tray.
    Itís just enough to cover the print.
    It creates a nice warm tone with Fomatone MG. I like the velvet so Iím using the 133.
    If I use the 00 filter I gain control of the blacks a bit more.
    For an idea on exposure with this combo itís about 1min at f/11.
    There is still a snatch point but it builds up a bit slower so its easier to tell I think.
    The first print is ready in about 3 mins or so with the developer at room temp (78F tap today) and times increase from there, but not too bad.
    You could heat it up like normal lith printing, but since itís strong I just do without.
    I think it Ďlastsí a bit longer too. Itís really a fun journey.
    The earlier prints are more of standard development but have a nice lith shift.
    Iíve become pretty comfortable with a snatch if Iíve found the right area to look at.
    If so, I just skip to another negative. I can get that satisfied even without dodging and burning.
    If you keep going with more prints or longer time of dev just sitting(oxidizing), you will get the more lithy look.
    Iím not using old brown, just mix it and go for a run with a negative, then toss.
    A 'run' can be 3-4 prints or 10. I haven't gone that far but it all depends on what you are after and how lithy you want it. I find myself sometimes just wanting to use it more as a normal developer and stopping.
    As with regular lith, it will get to a point of 'who knows what will happen'...

    The Arista powder costs $18 and makes a gallon each of A and B.
    So itís really pretty cheap compared to paper if you make it a 3-4 shot dev, especially for a nice tone and a lot of fun. The tone can shift depending on how much light you feed it. It's very warm. Tannish, olive out of the fixer.
    Selenium is VERY effective. It kind of has itís own snatch point depending on what you are after. I like to just bring in the blacks a bit and pull it. Thatís in the 15-20s range usually.
    Thatís keeps the warm tone. If you keep going itís still have a nice tone but will start to get purpley. If you keeeeep going (2min) it will be a deep red/brown.
    The dry down is pretty significant, especially if you did Selenium. Thatís when you need to know your snatch point. However, if you know how to compensate for it, I think itís a pretty badass looking print, in hand, compared to all the other normal dev/paper combos I tried.
    For those that make lith prints, I think youíll still have lots of fun with this. I can say that the bleach back in the fixer isnít as much so look out for that.
    Iím very interested in what others experience, especially with other papers.
    I'm low on MGWT but I think I have some snippets to tryout. That and a couple of others I'm curious about, so I continue to update. I like fomatone but never cared too much for the pinks. The stronger the developer got, the bigger the shift away.
    However, it's difficult to scan because of the velvety sheen. Here are two from last night with parameters above, ~20s in selenium (thinking of diluting for more control, it's 1:10). It's also hard to get the right tone on the scanner.....These are straight with no dodging or burning. It may be hard to see but the second one held the shadows well and it was a low light exposure.



    Scott

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    14,154
    Images
    288
    Nice work, Scott. I have only tried briefly with strong lith developer, and had trouble with the paper I was using (Agfa Record Rapid), so I stopped not wanting to spend any more of that precious paper.

    I have a ton of old Kodak paper, which I know will fog terribly if I use strong developer, so that's out of the picture. Foma is something I've eliminated from my darkroom, just because I don't want to have too many different papers. I wonder if regular Ilford MGIV would respond to really strong lith developer...
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,598
    Images
    14
    I prefer strong lith chems, my normal snatch point is around 2 1/2 to 3 min, any longer is a PIA and for me not worth persuing.

    With the stronger dev you can play with flash to get many, many looks.

  4. #4
    schrochem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Austin,Tx
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    324
    Images
    179
    I think overexposure isn't very flattering with this particular mix....
    Thomas, I think that was what was happening with MGWT and my splotching.
    I plan to test that soon but fomatone is a much slower paper so I get the 1min at f/11
    When I tried 1.5 minutes to get the clouds in that first print, the highlights started breaking up.
    Not really splotchy like I saw with the MGWT contact printing but I can see they are relatives.
    I'm not even sure where I'll start exposing MGWT but I think it's something like 2.5 stops faster than foma.
    Scott

  5. #5
    schrochem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Austin,Tx
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    324
    Images
    179
    Bob, I recall seeing your what you used but how strong do you go? Do you warm it up? Mess with contrast filters at all?
    The main thing I've been aiming at is getting this tone without bleaching and toning.
    Now I want to work with it to get the pop I want.
    Scott

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    188
    I love the overpasses... It's a beautiful print with a wonderful color... (i'd love to see that in person)

  7. #7
    schrochem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Austin,Tx
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    324
    Images
    179


    Sure can get a variety of colors. Thus may be only effective with fomatone for whatever reason. The real grey print is adox vario classic.

    Scott
    Scott

  8. #8
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,598
    Images
    14
    1500 ml A 1500ml B 10 -15 litres of water is my ratio. about 1:5 to 1:8
    I do not use filters , I use graded paper whenever possible, with Ilford WT I may use filter, the trick is to pull the print before the blacks start emerging and keep the print moving in the dev, stop (acid) and fix.
    The contrast explodes in the fix with Ilford Warmtone, once you figure the method it works every time, Ilford Warmtone tones incredibly.

    QUOTE=schrochem;1541120]Bob, I recall seeing your what you used but how strong do you go? Do you warm it up? Mess with contrast filters at all?
    The main thing I've been aiming at is getting this tone without bleaching and toning.
    Now I want to work with it to get the pop I want.[/QUOTE]

  9. #9
    schrochem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Austin,Tx
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    324
    Images
    179
    Hey y'all. Really having fun with this strength and this paper. I was/am having fun just cranking out 'contact sheets'. Just chose the ones I sorta liked and hit em. Dev times were close 2:30 to 3:00.
    I do want to pop up my high end. So I'm going up 30s on the next film development.

    Scott
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails uploadfromtaptalk1377834281449.jpg  
    Scott

  10. #10
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,598
    Images
    14
    this is the key to good lith printing, pump up the contrast or lighting ratio of the negative my friends, normal negs are ok but boost the contrast and your world of lith will be complete, screw 20 minute development I yawn just thinking of that method.

    The second source flash is what tames the contrast so go for it, I use HC110 with a long dev.... ie I recommend underexpose or normal expose then over develop by one three more stops to build up a very strong neg.
    Your flash will become necessary but watch for the creamy beautiful highlight detail to come into your prints at the snatch point..... Ilford Warmtone pre snatch.

    Quote Originally Posted by schrochem View Post
    Hey y'all. Really having fun with this strength and this paper. I was/am having fun just cranking out 'contact sheets'. Just chose the ones I sorta liked and hit em. Dev times were close 2:30 to 3:00.
    I do want to pop up my high end. So I'm going up 30s on the next film development.

    Scott

Page 1 of 6 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  ó   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin