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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    I'll run a min time to max black test at 2 minutes and compare the result to the 90 second test. I'll let you know what I find out.

    I like the idea of using a quartered print to establish a toning regimen.

    I think the 60 stop in running water is probably fine though I'd have no qualms about increasing that. I think introducing an acid stop into my fix-1 tray might do the TF-5's life more harm than a little residual developer would.

    Perhaps PE can comment on the effectiveness of a water stop for use with Liquidol.

    Love the help I'm getting. Thanks.
    TF-5 can be used perfectly well with a stop bath. Also note TF-5 is not an alkaline fix like TF-4. TF-5 is near-neutral in pH (actually slightly acid).

  2. #12
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    TF-5 can be used perfectly well with a stop bath. Also note TF-5 is not an alkaline fix like TF-4. TF-5 is near-neutral in pH (actually slightly acid).
    Yes, it is very similar to Ilford Hypam in that regard, which is also a neutral pH fixer.

    People may or may not agree, but the acid stop bath is, to me, like a type of insurance. Left over developer in the print can, as far as I understand, be detrimental long term. Using an acid stop bath is so easy and so inexpensive that I can't even think of a reason not to do it. Even TF-4 is buffered to be able to work with acid stop baths.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #13
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    Ok, I'll replace the water stop with an acid stop. It will save a lot of water, as well.

    Thanks.
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  4. #14
    jstraw's Avatar
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    I'm hatching a plan to determine whether I can reduce the capacity of my washer by displacement, cost effectively...and so that the wash remains effective.
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  5. #15
    jstraw's Avatar
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    A one inch thick slab of acrylic or other plastic, 16"x10", displaces .68 gallons, roughly. Six of them would displace over four gallons.
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  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    Yes, it is very similar to Ilford Hypam in that regard, which is also a neutral pH fixer.
    Thomas I think Hypam (without hardner) has the same working pH range as Ilford Rapid Fixer (ie pH 5-5.5).

  7. #17
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Ok, I'll replace the water stop with an acid stop. It will save a lot of water, as well.

    Thanks.
    I think the TF-5 fixer was designed to wash out of the emulsion very quickly. I know that's why I used TF-4 for many years, at least. Saved water and wash time, which seems to be a big focus for you (I applaud you for being so conscious about it).

    My reason for switching to Hypam was to avoid shipping fixer all the way from Montana to Minnesota. They offer Hypam at the local photography store here, so that's very convenient for me, and I'd like to think that it saves natural resources in other ways. Be best if they could be mixed from powder.

    If you use a standard fixer and hypo clearing agent, you might be able to cut down significantly on wash time also.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #18
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Thomas I think Hypam (without hardner) has the same working pH range as Ilford Rapid Fixer (ie pH 5-5.5).
    I'm not sure what the exact pH range is.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Thomas I think Hypam (without hardner) has the same working pH range as Ilford Rapid Fixer (ie pH 5-5.5).
    Ilford's Data sheet for Hypam gives a pH range of 5.0 - 5.5 when there is no hardener added - that is for both 1 + 4 and 1 + 9 dilutions.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #20
    jstraw's Avatar
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    I can get HDPE (like commercial kitchen cutting boards) cut to that size for $28 apiece.

    Since they're textured, they'd have advantages over the existing smooth acrylic. I could place them so that prints faced the textured surface and have 12 such surfaces to work with.
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