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  1. #11
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Well, the reason I want to do that with HP5+ is to make negatives as good with a faster film, as the ones I'm making that way with FP4+ already.
    Then use FP4 with a larger aperture.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  2. #12
    jstraw's Avatar
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    They look fine to me. I'm still running tests and haven't done any finely manipulated prints from negatives produced this way yet. I can scan something soon.

    My thinking is that in terms of overall density, the difference between 60 and 40 minutes may not be much. I believe that the local exhaustion occurs in the highlight areas much sooner than where there's shadow density being built.
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  3. #13
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    Then use FP4 with a larger aperture.
    I'm sorry...what?
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  4. #14
    Robert Hall's Avatar
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    jstraw,
    I get the micro contrast. Im actually surprised that developer with such high depletion rates works well being used in that method.

    Im ok taking your word for it.
    Robert Hall
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    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

  5. #15
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hall View Post
    jstraw,
    I get the micro contrast. Im actually surprised that developer with such high depletion rates works well being used in that method.

    Im ok taking your word for it.
    I'm not (entirely) wed to one developer. I do hate starting over and over...I'm eager to hear what you'd consider a better choice. I did have good luck with 510 Pyro in the past, when I could get it in a ready-to-use form. I was not good at mixing my own.

    What do you use that might serve me better than Pyrocat?
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  6. #16
    Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Curious if any one is doing this with HP5+ (Pyrocat [MC or HD], Extreme Minimal Agitation) and if so, what dilutions as times are you using.
    HP5+ and stand/semi-stand in Pyrocat-HD is sublime. Unbelievable edge effects. I develop in BTZS tubes (8x10). It takes 1200ml of diluted developer to fill an 8x10 tube (standing), therefore, my dilution is 1:1:240 (5ml A + 5ml B + 1200ml water).
    My development time is 1 hour. I agitate (by rolling) for the first minute, then about 5 secs every 20 minutes. I always remove the film after I agitate, invert and reinsert.
    It is wise to shoot a backup just incase of excessive bromide drag or mottling. I used to have these issues, but inverting the film inside the tube has eliminated them.

    I should also add that stand development is not recommended for all types of images. A negative where the local contrasts are high, and lots of textures, would work very well. I once semi-stood a negative which had a softly lit scene with fog... and it just looks yucky.

  7. #17
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill View Post
    HP5+ and stand/semi-stand in Pyrocat-HD is sublime. Unbelievable edge effects. I develop in BTZS tubes (8x10). It takes 1200ml of diluted developer to fill an 8x10 tube (standing), therefore, my dilution is 1:1:240 (5ml A + 5ml B + 1200ml water).
    My development time is 1 hour. I agitate (by rolling) for the first minute, then about 5 secs every 20 minutes. I always remove the film after I agitate, invert and reinsert.
    It is wise to shoot a backup just incase of excessive bromide drag or mottling. I used to have these issues, but inverting the film inside the tube has eliminated them.

    I should also add that stand development is not recommended for all types of images. A negative where the local contrasts are high, and lots of textures, would work very well. I once semi-stood a negative which had a softly lit scene with fog... and it just looks yucky.
    In a sense, this is very similar to what I'm doing. Thanks for the input.

    I can see that I do need to have a method for more continuous-tone images.
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  8. #18
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Those are really something, Rod. I don't see exposure information on those. Any idea how long those exposures were?
    The Panoramic was 2m 35s

    The 6x9 was 1m 55s

    You may enjoy OBSIDIAN AQUA, it is dirt cheap to make and use, lasts indefinitely and makes very nice negatives. That and 510-PYRO are all I use these days...

    RR

  9. #19
    jstraw's Avatar
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    It was asked, how easy the negatives were to print, which are produced with FP4+ in Pyrocat MC 1.5.1.200 for 60min.

    Here's an absolutely straight grade 2 print on Arista EDU VC. Print time is 20.1 seconds at f16. Development is 2 minutes in Liquidol 1:9. Toning is six minutes in Legacy Pro selenium.

    I did nothing but straighten the scan and crop the edges in Photoshop.

    Apologies for the scan lines. My scanner is lousy.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fp4pmc151200aedug2mttmbsel396_6min.jpg  
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  10. #20
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    It was asked, how easy the negatives were to print, which are produced with FP4+ in Pyrocat MC 1.5.1.200 for 60min.

    Here's an absolutely straight grade 2 print on Arista EDU VC. Print time is 20.1 seconds at f16. Development is 2 minutes in Liquidol 1:9. Toning is six minutes in Legacy Pro selenium.

    I did nothing but straighten the scan and crop the edges in Photoshop.

    Apologies for the scan lines. My scanner is lousy.

    Lovely tonal range. Clearly a nicely exposed and developed negative...





    RR

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