Don't paint your darkroom black! Most likely it will be fine.
I work in a darkroom with a mirrored wall, and it is fine.
If you note a particularly bright spot on a ceiling or wall, just tape some dark paper there.
When you rewind your films in your ME Supers, you will be able to feel and hear the film coming off the take up spool. Just stop there, open the back, and tear off the leader.
As for the wetting agent ...
Do you have a small measuring cylinder - say up to 45 ml?
If so, just measure the total volume of, for example, 30 or 50 drops.
Then calculate what the total volume of working solution you would end up with if you dilute that volume according to the Ilford instructions (1 + 200).
Then divide that total volume by the number of drops you used, to get the volume of working solution you will get from each drop.
Well I live in a hard water area and need to use stainless steel wool in kettles so after I wash film in hand wash basin using a print syphon I squeeze a long squirt of dish wash liquid detergent into basin and foam the water with the dev spiral shake the spiral over bath to remove water hang it up over bath squeegee it and leave it for six hours any other procedure leaves drying marks.
My proposed tempoary darkroom is under the stairs and is pure white! I'll do a rolling stones and paint it pure matt black. I'll also have to install electricity unless I run a socket from the installed lightswitch (illegal but I'm only running an enlarger of it and a safelight. The proposed darkroom is super small so it'll be a challenge! I'd like to use heater trays etc. which require proper current I will install a proper spur from the mains although I simply don't have any room (I can fit 2 bicycles and hang coats but that is it!)
I would suggest painting is a bad idea and that some cloth drapes would be cheaper and more-easily reversible.
And for power, just run an extension lead from another room and put a powerboard in the darkroom. Much safer and more legal than hooking into the wrong circuit!
Originally Posted by nocturnal
As for the advice about wetting agent, would a couple of droplets per 500ml of water be sufficient?
It depends on the quality of your water, so you will need to experiment a little with that. If it foams, that's way too much. Definitely you need to remove ALL sediment etc from your final-rinse water, there's nothing photoflo can do to prevent drying marks when there's crud in the water. Squeegeeing will get rid of everything but you risk scratches so it's a controversial matter as to which technique is best/safest/etc.
Hanging your film diagonally while drying helps greatly because the water only needs to get to the edge of the film, not run all the way down it.
best not to react but back OT
in c bag you need can opener and care attack crimp on end of cassette remote from protruding plastic swiss army knife is ideal. You don't need stitches in hand dont ask
the film image is emulsion side in and under the leader it comes out on the spool little hazard to it while on spool
Not rewinding completely hazards getting 72 shots per cassette don't ask
I've been everywhere ooooohhh yeaahhhh still I'm standing tall.
ISTR the Kodak ones were especially hard to open-do Kodak think all photographers are more ripped than Arnie?....
"He took to writing poetry and visiting the elves: and though many shook their heads and touched their foreheads and said 'Poor old Baggins!' and though few believed any of his tales, he remained very happy till the end of his days, and those were extraordinarily long "- JRR Tolkien, ' The Hobbit '.