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  1. #11

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    In relation to your first comment: yes, quite; that was the point of my remark about materials quality.

    In relation to your second, I'm certainly not someone who expects "usable results from random combos at the first attempt"; and of course, this particular recipe wasn't a "random combo", but a Kodak formula, although of course (again, as I am perfectly well aware) my materials are unlikely to be of the same grade as those used in a Kodak laboratory.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdeeh View Post
    In relation to your second, I'm certainly not someone who expects "usable results from random combos at the first attempt"; and of course, this particular recipe wasn't a "random combo", but a Kodak formula, although of course (again, as I am perfectly well aware) my materials are unlikely to be of the same grade as those used in a Kodak laboratory.
    When it comes to using random combos, I myself am probably one of the worst offenders here with a dozen b&w films and probably over two dozens of developers used (and some combos failed spectacularly, I tell you). I personally see this as a great benefit of today that I can order stuff online, try stuff out and compare it to other people's results and hope you did not see this as criticism of your work. Quite to the contrary, I would like to encourage you to pursue this further, with the right equipment (i.e. pH meter, scale, proper work area, ...) and the right skill set (how to adjust contrast, fog, grain, speed, sharpness, ....) you will gain very nice results and learn a lot about chemistry, more than with this kit at least ....
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  3. #13

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    Thank you for clarifying Rudeofus, I was not quite sure what you were saying!

    For me it's a bit of fun to play with a developer like this. It's very simple and inexpensive to make, and I have a lot of very cheap Polypan F which I can abuse in all sorts of ways. I'm not temperamentally equipped for systematic research and testing, but I can manage it in short bursts.

    So far as I can understand, EAA wouldn't have been intended as a pictorial developer, but the frames I do have that were developed correctly using it show beautiful sharpness, subtle tones and long scale. Remarkable really, as Polypan is about the cheapest film you can buy, and I'm exposing it at EI200 while it's nominally ISO50. Of course I am judging this based on inspection and negative scans, so there's no guarantee that it will translate to looking so good on paper.

    Even at this level of underexposure, the developing times are very short -- 5 or 6 minutes at most (at 20C) so it is, as someone said above, quite "hot", which makes it slightly impractical for general use. Dialling in development times for "proper" film costing more than Polypan's ~50p/roll of 36 might prove rather expensive ...

  4. #14
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    You don't have to waste whole rolls of film for testing. First take small unexposed test clips to fine tune restrainer and pH for fog free development, then take a roll of identical test shots and develop clip after clip until you like the results. Since clips of two or three frames hold quite well in most common film dev tanks, it should take much less than half a roll of film to dial in a dev/film combo.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  5. #15

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    for interest's sake I got hold of some inexpensive narrow-range pH strips.
    These indicate that at the dilution I used, the pH of the metaborate solution was in excess of 12.5

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdeeh View Post
    for interest's sake I got hold of some inexpensive narrow-range pH strips.
    These indicate that at the dilution I used, the pH of the metaborate solution was in excess of 12.5
    This illustrates the problem when you try to make your own metaborate from borax and lye and don't get the proportions right. It's best to buy it if you can.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  7. #17

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    Well, as I have repeatedly noted in a number of posts, I have found it impossible, as a private individual, to buy metaborate in the UK.

    I shan't bother with the "Wilde method" again. Though clearly it worked for him and others, I've had two wildly (pun unintentional) inconsistent results now.

    For the few occasions when I do need metaborate, I'll substitute 1.5g Hydroxide+7.0g Borax for every 10g required. I've done this recently a number of times now with consistent results.

  8. #18
    Rafal Lukawiecki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdeeh View Post
    Well, as I have repeatedly noted in a number of posts, I have found it impossible, as a private individual, to buy metaborate in the UK.
    I buy it from Fototechnik Suvatlar, in Germany, where 500g costs about €16 plus postage, this is item number 76 on their price list http://moersch-photochemie.de/moersc...ine%202013.pdf
    Rafal Lukawiecki
    See rafal.net | Read rafal.net/articles

  9. #19

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    Ralf, what does Moersch charge you for shipping to ROI for that weight

  10. #20
    Rafal Lukawiecki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdeeh View Post
    Ralf, what does Moersch charge you for shipping to ROI for that weight
    I have purchase directly from Fototechnik Suvatlar, not via Moersch, but not a single item. The last order was almost 10kg (ammonium thiosulfate 60% is heavy), there were perhaps 10 different items in it, and the shipping was EUR 35, which was fair considering the items. I would suggest you email Saban at fotosuvatlar@live.de and ask for a quote, it should be less for a small item.
    Rafal Lukawiecki
    See rafal.net | Read rafal.net/articles

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