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  1. #1
    George Papantoniou's Avatar
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    Starting point suggestions !

    I'm thinking of experimenting with some 8X10 inch Tri-X I have, developed in paper developer (Dektol, or Eukobrom) in order to get max contrast and min shadow detail... (tray development, intermittent agitation)

    What would you suggest as a starting point for exposure and dev time ??

  2. #2
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Interesting thought. Never done that but looks like a nice experiment.
    Try a Google search for:

    developing tri-x in dektol
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Nikon S2, Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T, Nikon F4s, Olympus Pen FT, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras.

  3. #3
    Rick A's Avatar
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    I tried looking up some times in an old photo lab index, no times exist. I even tried cross referencing with D-72, the recommendation for press negatives(unspecified film) is : 1+1@68f, 5 mins no agitation, 4 mins with, for medium contrast. For greater contrast use full strength, less contrast dilute 1+2. You can also control contrast with dev times.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  4. #4

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    There are some suggested times on the massive dev chart with different dilutions and temperatures http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart...ch&TempUnits=C. They may be useful as a starting point. There was also another post on here recently in which someone posted an image of tri-x in dektol. This was 35mm and they were particularly looking for grain which they certainly achieved. I'll see if I can find it.

  5. #5

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    Here you go... http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1...so-fast-3.html Bill Burk's post on page 3.

  6. #6
    George Papantoniou's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I think I'll start with the film rated @ 800 and use the soup undiluted, to see what'll happen... then go on from there to find a good recipe !

    If this doesn't work, I'll try that pseudo-lith developer by Tetenal (Dokulith ??) if I can get my hands on a bottle ! It was supposed to give high-contrast images when used on film , I think.

  7. #7
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    don't go there. you are about to starting a trial and error game.this can take forever. start with a proper film test and get it right from the starthowever, this will take 6 sheets just for the test, I'm afraid. there are no short cuts to quality.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  8. #8
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Thanks Simonh32,

    Ralph brings up the importance of testing. That referenced post, where I developed a roll in Dektol 1:9, leaves out details of the tests I performed that led me to choose 5 minutes. In January I had done a set of tests at different development times, which gave me time/contrast information.

    George Papantoniou,

    You could make normally exposed and processed negatives, and then use a lith process from a successful negative to get prints with the look you are going for.

  9. #9

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    It may also be convenient to try a few exposures on the same sheet of 8x10, in a similar way to a printing test-strip. You will need a film-holder with a well fitting slide and probably shoot the test subject indoors with artificial light - both points in order to reduce the possibilities for light-leaks via the light-trap. Make multiple exposures, three is do-able, withdrawing the slide partially for each one and remembering the time is cumulative.

    Keeping a constant aperture, and having the longest exposure as the usual ISO rating (ie. assuming the relatively active developer gives a speed increase over ISO) a three-exposure, two-stop range might be something like 1/30s, 1/60s, 1/60s. The total exposure per strip in this example would be 1/15s, 1/30s and 1/60s. With a carefully selected/made test subject, you would be able to get a good idea of highlights and shadow details much more quickly/cheaply than developing three sheets.

    I tried this for pinhole testing, with longer exposures, but ran foul of the imprecision of reciprocity failure . . . too optimistic

  10. #10

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    For the occasions where I've developed film in Dektol 1:2, I've always developed for two minutes. Only once did I developed a roll of Tri-X 35mm in warm Dektol as I was in too big of a hurry to wait for it to cool. I produced my best portrait from that batch of negatives. Very grainy and contrasty. I don't know about 8x10 whether the graininess would be all that obvious, but the contrast difference should be quite noticeable.

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