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  1. #1
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    D23 1+3 Rotary Development LF film

    I have been experimenting with D23 at 1+3 and rotary development in home made BTZS style tubes, rolling them slowly and gently in a tub of water.

    I intend this thread to be a resource for Times, Temperatures and experiences doing the same.

    I am finishing off my last package of Kodak Tmax 400 (which I will post about in this thread). After that film is gone I plan to use HP5+ (which I'm already using in 120 roll film). However, I acquired 175 sheets of J&C Pro 100 4x5 at an incredibly good price so will be using that up first. I will post my experiences with HP5+ and JCPro 100 when I have reasonable experience with them in D23 1+3. (I have mostly used those films with Pyrocat HD at this point)

  2. #2
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    D23 1+3, Kodak Tmax 400 (TMY2) at ISO 250. Temperatures have started at 72° and finished at about 70°.
    So far my times are looking like this:

    N+1 = 20 minutes
    N = 17 minutes
    N-1 = 14.5 minutes

    Though I rate the film at ISO 250 I tend to error on the side of more exposure. These times/temps are for contact printing on VC paper with a target contrast grade of 3.5.

    I have yet to test beyond N-1 or N+1. I will add those experiences if I come across any such scenes before running out of this emulsion.
    Thus far I have been very happy with my results and the prints have come relatively easily, simple burning and dodging and a few prints have been made with only one filter grade (which is a little unusual for me).

    *I should add that I am using 25ml of D23 plus 75ml of distilled water for a total of 100ml per sheet of 4x5. I am also using a pre-soak of about 2 minutes.
    Last edited by Shawn Dougherty; 10-22-2013 at 02:15 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: added volume and pre-soak information

  3. #3
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    There is a useful post on the LFF regarding D23 1+3 and KodakTmax100, although the poster goes to 1+1 for N+ negatives.
    It is post #2.

    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ull=1#post3105

  4. #4
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Two things to add to my Tmax 400 info I supplied in post #2. I have bumped some times and added an N+2 time so....

    Tmax 400 @ 250 - 70°f
    N+2 = 24 minutes (and I would not be afraid to go to 25 or 26 minutes...)
    N+1 = 21 minutes
    N = 17 minutes
    N-1 = 14.5 minutes

    Also, I've got 30 sheets of Tmax400 left and then will be moving on to my stash of HP5+, which I'm already using with D23 1+3 in 120 roll film, though not with continuous agitation.

    I'm wondering if anyone has any starting point times for D23 1+3 and HP5+ with ROTARY DEVELOPMENT (BTZS or Jobo)? Perceptol 1+3 or Microdol X 1+3 would be good to know as those should be close. So far I have only found one time on the Ilford Perceptol PDF for 1+3...

    Thanks!
    Shawn

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn Dougherty View Post
    Two things to add to my Tmax 400 info I supplied in post #2. I have bumped some times and added an N+2 time so....

    Tmax 400 @ 250 - 70°f
    N+2 = 24 minutes (and I would not be afraid to go to 25 or 26 minutes...)
    N+1 = 21 minutes
    N = 17 minutes
    N-1 = 14.5 minutes

    Also, I've got 30 sheets of Tmax400 left and then will be moving on to my stash of HP5+, which I'm already using with D23 1+3 in 120 roll film, though not with continuous agitation.

    I'm wondering if anyone has any starting point times for D23 1+3 and HP5+ with ROTARY DEVELOPMENT (BTZS or Jobo)? Perceptol 1+3 or Microdol X 1+3 would be good to know as those should be close. So far I have only found one time on the Ilford Perceptol PDF for 1+3...

    Thanks!
    Shawn
    Shawn,
    You touched on something I'm a little interested in and that's HP5+ in D-23 1:3/Perceptol 1:3. I'm in the process of buying HP5+, FP4+ and PanF + in 120. I've been doing some playing around with other films and now think it's time to settle down and get back to some serious stuff. I've used PanF and PanF+ in Perceptol 1:3 in the past and think it is the best combo I have used for PanF film, but I've never developed or can't remember developing HP5/HP5+ in Perceptol 1:3. My question to you is, how well do you like the results from HP5+ in D-23 1:3 and how is the contrast range?

  6. #6
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    So far I have only developed HP5+ in D23 1+3 using 120 roll film (stainless tank reals / agitation once a minute). I have not done enough or made enough prints to make informed comments. I will say that things look quite promising, not much different than what I have experienced with D23 1+3 and Tmax400, which I love.

    I will certainly report back with my findings once I have more experience using this combo.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn Dougherty View Post
    So far I have only developed HP5+ in D23 1+3 using 120 roll film ).(stainless tank reals / agitation once a minute I have not done enough or made enough prints to make informed comments. I will say that things look quite promising, not much different than what I have experienced with D23 1+3 and Tmax400, which I love.

    I will certainly report back with my findings once I have more experience using this combo.
    I'll be doing the (stainless tank reals / agitation once a minute) routine also. TMY2 is one great film, but I want to stick with the older "conventional type" emulsions for a while and see where that leads me. I've just ran a few rolls of film through some Pyrocat-MC and I'm impressed. I think I could be happy with that and Perceptol/D-23. Of course there's always that bottle of Rodinal on the back shelf too. When I was taking an advanced/large format college course I did develop some sheets in D-23 1:1 and thought they were as good as, if not better than, the HC110 dil.B that the instructor recommended. That was the last time I used D-23 and that was around 1980 or so.

  8. #8
    Shawn Dougherty's Avatar
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    Ilford HP5+ 4x5 film exposed at ISO 200 developed in D23 1+3 with homemade BTZS style tubes - ROTARY AGITATION.

    This is early information, and I feel that I slightly overexposed my film (even for me) in south Florida after not being used to sunshine this long, cold, dark winter....

    But so far it's looking like my times at 70 degrees with the above combo appear to be...
    N = 25 minutes
    N+1 = 30 minutes

    After I get through my Everglades / Big Cypress negatives I will do another film speed test and work to double check these times with any adjustments I might make. I will also post any N- information I work out.

    It's awfully quite in here, I guess I'm the only one on APUG using D23 1+3 with rotary development... what's scaring everyone off? The long development times? Or is D23 too complicated to mix?

    I will say the grain is there but not bad, less grain than Rodinal but just as sharp under an 8x loupe (I realize how subjective that is...).

  9. #9

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    You are not alone.

  10. #10
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    May I know your times for 120 in Stainless steel tanks.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

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