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  1. #1

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    a question about rollei retro 80s and asa

    although im a hardcore noob to photography, im having a great time shooting film, processing and printing... im learning so much!
    in retrospect, i should have checked the data sheets first, but i loaded my ae-1 prog. with the 80s and since there is no asa notch between 50 and 100, i left it at 50, having just shot a roll if ilford panf plus. the developer i have is ilford dd-x. but the only info on development times i can find are for 80 and 100 EI, ive only shot 8 images, 6 landscapes with an IR filter, and 2 portraits... should i move the notch on the cam to 100 and develop in kind, or should i keep shooting at 50 and develop for less time than the 80 iso. i could really use some advice. thanks...

    Nick

  2. #2
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    There are notches between 50 and 100, they just aren't labelled. One tick past 50 is 64; two ticks past 50 (or one before 100) is 80.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  3. #3

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    thank you!!!

  4. #4
    MattKing's Avatar
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    And the shots taken at 50 will probably be fine.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #5
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Develop as per 50, it will be completely fine. A 2/3 stop exposure will probably be a good thing.

  6. #6
    Regular Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stickfeller View Post
    although im a hardcore noob to photography, im having a great time shooting film, processing and printing... im learning so much!
    in retrospect, i should have checked the data sheets first, but i loaded my ae-1 prog. with the 80s and since there is no asa notch between 50 and 100, i left it at 50, having just shot a roll if ilford panf plus. the developer i have is ilford dd-x. but the only info on development times i can find are for 80 and 100 EI, ive only shot 8 images, 6 landscapes with an IR filter, and 2 portraits... should i move the notch on the cam to 100 and develop in kind, or should i keep shooting at 50 and develop for less time than the 80 iso. i could really use some advice. thanks...

    Nick

    The only danger you have is that bright highlights may get blocked by normal development. Your best chance for success is to use a compensating developer with a semi-stand regime for agitation. If I was developing your film with the mix of exposures on it, I'd choose OBSIDIAN AQUA diluted 1:500 and develop for 12 minutes at 20 deg. C and use it after the film has had a two minute pre-soak in tap water at the same temperature, the developer would be agitated with inversions constantly for the first full minute and then just four inversion every two minutes thereafter leaving the film un-agitated for the last full minute of the 12 minutes. Stop bath would be two changes of tap water at 20 deg. C and Ilford Rapid Fixer would be then use for 5 full minutes. Washing would be by the Ilford recommended method with 0.5ml of Mirasol wetting agent in a final static rinse/soak for 2 minutes. The film would then be hung up to dry with a weighted clip on the lower end. The semi-stand agitation will, to quite a large extent, protect your highlights from blocking.


    RR

  7. #7

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    As mentioned earlier in the thread, simply move the film-speed dial to two 'clicks' above the 50 setting. Although there are no numbers between 50 and 100, there should be 'click' settings.

    When you come to development, use your DDX and develop the roll with the times for ISO80. The differences in highlights will be fairly minimal for the shots you've already made, especially as the IR exposures are an approximation anyway (as light-meters can't measure IR 'light').

  8. #8
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    And for your future reference:

    12 16 20 25 32 40 50 64 80 100 125 160 200 250 320 400 500 640 800 1000 1250 1600 2000 2500 3200

    The bold-faced ones are the ones you will see on your dial. The standard font ones are the ticks that are in between.

    Notice that every number has a double 3 to the right and its half three to the left (some are slightly rounded for convenience, e.g. 125 should really be 128). That will help you remember it, if you can just remember one or two sets of the numbers.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?



 

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