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  1. #1

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    Clayton F76+ and Arista Premium Liquid developer

    Well, I just took the plunge! Not a very deep one, but a plunge never the less. I just order some Arista Premium Liquid developer(same as Clayton's F76+) from Freestyle and plan on using it with mainly Arista EDU Ultra 200 and Fuji Acros, both in 120. I needed a store-bought developer to keep on hand for use when my grandkids come over or when I run out of certain chems and need a quick developer. The only other store-bought developer I have is a half bottle of original Rodinal. Tells you how much developer I buy. All my other developers (fx37, Pyrocat-MC, Peceptol/Microdol clone, d-23) are homemade. I've heard good things about Clayton's F76+/Arista Premium Liquid and hope it works with the Arista EDU Ultra 200/Foma 200. Anyone tried the combination? JohnW

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I tried F76+ in its FA-1027 guise from Photographers' Formulary, but I used it with TMax 100 and FP4+. It's a wonderful developer that will give results reminiscent of D76, but the 'cleaner' negs with less base fog. As usual, there is no real magic to a film developer. It's a very good product.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    I tried F76+ in its FA-1027 guise from Photographers' Formulary, but I used it with TMax 100 and FP4+. It's a wonderful developer that will give results reminiscent of D76, but the 'cleaner' negs with less base fog. As usual, there is no real magic to a film developer. It's a very good product.
    Thomas,
    That's all I'm really looking for and I like the"clean" negative part as that's a plus. I remember my days 30+ years ago chasing that magic bullet in a college photography class 101. It involved Edwal's FG7 and the 15% sulfite addition. We were all suppose to use only HC110 dil. B, but I was going to cheat. I wanted good tonal range, sharpness and fine grain with Tri-X so I went with FG7 and the sulfite addition. Well, instead of just being happy with 15% I thought why not get even finer grain with 30% or more. I don't have to tell you the rest of the story. I ended up staying with just diluted FG7 after trying to get fine grain and anything that resembled a sharp negative, with the addition of the extra Sodium Sulfite. There are no magic bullets, but there are some that shoot a little flatter and straighter. JohnW

  4. #4

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    There are just good techniques and not so good ones, John. There is no magic bullet, but there is a grain eating sodium sulfite.
    I use FA1027 time to time, like Thomas. This is a very good developer for classic grain films. In higher dilution will work well with T-grain and it is better at that than D76.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by timor View Post
    There are just good techniques and not so good ones, John. There is no magic bullet, but there is a grain eating sodium sulfite.
    I use FA1027 time to time, like Thomas. This is a very good developer for classic grain films. In higher dilution will work well with T-grain and it is better at that than D76.
    Yup, you are right! One of the reasons(actually two reasons) I went this way was it's suppose to be a little safer developer and I heard it is similar to Ilfords DDX, which I really liked. Some would probably say if you liked Ilford DDX then just buy that. Well, the difference in the price has a way of pushing me in the direction of Arista Premium liquid/Clayton F76+. Pocket change doesn't come easy nowadays.

  6. #6

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    Try Tmax Dev. DDX is it's copy or very similar Tmax Dev is great for images of soft gradation. It might seems expensive, everything is related to the quality you want to achieve. I use it as one shot 1+7 or 1+9.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by timor View Post
    Try Tmax Dev. DDX is it's copy or very similar Tmax Dev is great for images of soft gradation. It might seems expensive, everything is related to the quality you want to achieve. I use it as one shot 1+7 or 1+9.
    timor
    If the Arista Premium Liquid doesn't pan out I'll probably go to something like Xtol. I've used it before at 1:3 and had very good results with both TMY-2 and Acros, but did not have Arista EDU 200 Ultra at that time. HC-110 is another option and I have used that years past. I'm looking for something that might be a little safer for my grandkids than say Rodinal or Pyro type developers and still be bought commercially. I haven't used Tmax developer since it first came out many years ago, but maybe it's worth a try if all else fails. John

  8. #8
    Christopher Walrath's Avatar
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    The Arista is a good general purpose developer. I keep one bottle for contact sheets of negatives. But it has a relatively short shelf life. Two years sealed and I had to replace it.

  9. #9

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    Safer chemically ? Or in use ?

  10. #10
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Walrath View Post
    The Arista is a good general purpose developer. I keep one bottle for contact sheets of negatives. But it has a relatively short shelf life. Two years sealed and I had to replace it.
    Are you talking about the print developer, Chris?
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

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