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  1. #61
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3 View Post
    I agree. I couldn't care less about grain, but the tonal qualities of TMY are amazing.
    Yes, I use it for studio work()flash photography) and never have to worry about dead shadows or blocked highlights.Nevertheless,with proper exposure and development one should ge the samefrom all the other name -brand films also. the rest is individual preference or just what one is used to.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  2. #62
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megzdad81 View Post
    I have only fount that Tri-X was the most forgiving of my incredibly stupid errors ...
    An excellent point! It becomes a toss-up what film to recommend to our beginning students -- one that is more forgiving with exposure (TMax) or one that is more forgiving with development (Tri-X). We tend to go towards TMax -- at least with developing they are in our darkroom where we can be of some help and try to get them to develop in a consistent manner.
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  3. #63
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I am not aware of the use of t-grains in paper emulsions.

    Ektar uses a mix of conventional cubic grains and t-grains to achieve it's goal of fine grained color.

    Both Ilford and Kodak were at the forefront of emulsion improvements. Fuji and Agfa were about 1 generation behind IIRC.. Simon can correct me on this as well as my paper comment above.

    And, when I was coating the Kodacolor Gold 400 experiments, there was a team behind us working on it's replacement using t-grains. This was in the era when t-grains cracked and then fogged going around the tiny rollers in 120 and 220 film backs and so a "lubricant" had to be found to allow the emulsion coating to flex.

    PE

  4. #64
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    PE, thank you for your posts.they are so enriching to APUG.Weare all fortunate to have people such as you,Simon and |Ian in our forums;much appreciated!
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  5. #65
    c6h6o3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    Yes, I use it for studio work()flash photography) and never have to worry about dead shadows or blocked highlights.Nevertheless,with proper exposure and development one should ge the samefrom all the other name -brand films also. the rest is individual preference or just what one is used to.
    Perhaps, but I have difficulty getting prints as good with HP5+ as I do with TMax, I think due to the incredibly long straight line section of TMY's response curve. HP5+ has a relatively abrupt shoulder so I tend to blow highlights with it, especially since I rate the film at either 200 or 100 depending on the shadows. I'll just have to keep working with it, I guess.
    Jim

  6. #66
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    PE, thank you for your posts.they are so enriching to APUG.Weare all fortunate to have people such as you,Simon and |Ian in our forums;much appreciated!
    HUGE +1 to that!
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
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  7. #67
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Well, thanks guys. Just trying to help.

    PE

  8. #68
    Athiril's Avatar
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    I really like Delta 400 for many things, though I tend to use Tri-X a lot more, also keen on Acros, and exploring Delta 100 too.

  9. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by c6h6o3 View Post
    Perhaps, but I have difficulty getting prints as good with HP5+ as I do with TMax, I think due to the incredibly long straight line section of TMY's response curve. HP5+ has a relatively abrupt shoulder so I tend to blow highlights with it, especially since I rate the film at either 200 or 100 depending on the shadows. I'll just have to keep working with it, I guess.
    Have you tried a softer working developer or using less time?

  10. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Well, thanks guys. Just trying to help.

    PE
    PE, I go out of my way to read your posts. Even in topics I'm not interested in!!! Seriously.



 

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