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  1. #1
    cliveh's Avatar
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    T grain emulsions

    I do not like these, don't consider them natural, they lack integrity and when a manufacturer attempts to put all the grains in the same direction, I believe they don't always succeed. Are others for or against?

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  2. #2

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    horses for courses...only a tool to make a photograph...
    have a nice day
    peter
    website down for maintenance!

  3. #3
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Neither "for" nor "against." The do seem subjectively to give a slightly different look that's hard to quantify or even explain. Still, I doubt most people could pick out prints made on old versus new tech emulsions if that was the only difference and they were otherwise as closely matched as possible. They have very straight line responses for the most part so tolerate exposure errors, particularly overexposure, well, but are sensitive to development changes. So I use TMY in 4x5 where I can vary development individually (and also where I carefully expose using a spot meter) but use conventional films for the most part, except for some Acros which seems neither one nor the other, in 120 and 35mm.

  4. #4

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    Just don't like them. I am not so rabidly opposed to grain as some on APUG are. Besides they are a bit fussy to process.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  5. #5
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I used Tmax 100 & 400 from their release in the UK until they became almost unavailable in some parts of the world. No issues I read John Sexton's superb articles in Darkroom Techniques did my own Zone System tests with similar results and just kept shooting.

    Films are as good as their users and poor workmen blame their tools. There aren't nay poor films available these days they are all cpable of excellent results once you tame them.

    Ian

  6. #6

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    Good Evening, Clive,

    I agree with Ian's comment above. I occasionally use other films, but T-100 is my favorite (I don't care for graininess), with T-400 when there's less light. Contrast control with T-100 is easy, one major reason I favor the film in sizes ranging from 35mm to 4 × 5.

    Konical

  7. #7
    David Allen's Avatar
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    I have used, for the past 12 years, Delta 400 with a personal EI 200 developed in various two-bath developers with Thornton's being the only one for 8 years. For my work it is perfect.

    This type of thread will generate loads of responses along the lines of mine and they will all be pointless because what I want to achieve in my prints will be different to someone else's.

    The correct response is . . . If you want to produce images like mine then a 'modern' (lets face it this is now REALLY old technology) film is the best.

    If you want images like Andersen or Moriyama then use Tri-X pushed and if you want images like Friedlander use Plus-X and if you want images that suit you, then use what suits your work.

    One of the images on my website was shot using Tri-X developed in HC110 at dilution B. If you can identify it, I will send you a print in a window matt which is worth 420€ (gallery price).

    Bests,

    David
    www.dsallen.de

  8. #8
    Jerevan's Avatar
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    I've used Tmax with Rodinal, Tmax RS and Xtol - all fine. That it had to be processed with care, meant that I did it by the textbook, reading up and being very careful with temperatures. At the time, I thought the Tmax/Rodinal combination was a dismal failure. Now, looking back I am not so sure - I guess tastes change over time.
    “Do your work, then step back. The only path to serenity.” - Lao Tzu

  9. #9
    cliveh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Allen View Post
    I have used, for the past 12 years, Delta 400 with a personal EI 200 developed in various two-bath developers with Thornton's being the only one for 8 years. For my work it is perfect.

    This type of thread will generate loads of responses along the lines of mine and they will all be pointless because what I want to achieve in my prints will be different to someone else's.

    The correct response is . . . If you want to produce images like mine then a 'modern' (lets face it this is now REALLY old technology) film is the best.

    If you want images like Andersen or Moriyama then use Tri-X pushed and if you want images like Friedlander use Plus-X and if you want images that suit you, then use what suits your work.

    One of the images on my website was shot using Tri-X developed in HC110 at dilution B. If you can identify it, I will send you a print in a window matt which is worth 420€ (gallery price).

    Bests,

    David
    www.dsallen.de
    David, I would have a go, but only the first image opens on gallery 2 of your website for me.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    I do not like these, don't consider them natural, they lack integrity and when a manufacturer attempts to put all the grains in the same direction, I believe they don't always succeed. Are others for or against?
    Natural? Integrity? Grains in the same direction?? When you post things like this are you actually serious?

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