Well I was only attempting to help the OP.
Some lenses do bleed high lights locally but many dont the (SC) ones I use tend to flash the whole negative.
Use a hood the last thing you need is light sources out of frame 'helping'
Remove filters you don't needs ghosts.
Use camera with good internal baffles.
This technique also works (even better) for d@&;-#&s...
Flashing prints uses the same silver halide mechanism but in a reciprocal way.
I use Canon LTMs '50-70s 28mm, 35mm and 5cm... and ocassionally FSU LTMs but they (the FSU) do have more bleed.