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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    53
    I should have bought that paterson print washer although I changed my mind when I seen the Nova. I may get a print washer until a Nova turns up (kicking myself for not buying it and not taking the phone number!!!!!) as I want to print ASAP

    Ah so you pour it back in! And just hang the paper up on a line! Why do I not think of these things or read it in books? Can't beat experience and a human to teach you!

    I have some 1996 dated Lustre unopened Grade 2 here (100 sheets) although I've no idea if it is OK. I'll get some Ilford MG incase.

    Of course I want to try a 12 x 16 straight away as my first LOL. Maybe I'll work up to that. I don't even know how to contact print yet but let me guess...

    8 x 10 photopaper and a glass sheet with 36 negatives sandwiched in the middle, give it a blast of light from the enlarger but for how long????? How do you know how long to expose the contact sheet for?

    Another stupid question, when they talk about the emulsion side of negatives is this the 'matt' side which gets exposed to the lens in the camera and the facing side is glossy? Which way do these go into the enlarger? Glossy side down?

  2. #12

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Daventry, Northamptonshire, England
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    6,862
    It is emulsion to emulsion so matt side of neg in carrier facing emulsion side of paper - likewise on a contact sheet. As far as contact sheet time is concerned you can simply do a series of test strips but a better exercise is to raise the head to a height that will print all the negs on top of the paper so 36 frames on a 8x10 then before doing the print, place the exposed film leader( the black bit) in the neg carrier and project it at same size as contact print paper and do test strips until you have several strips of dark grey leading to black. Use the time that produced the first black strip for the contact paper.

    If the film has been correctly exposed and developed all the contact negs should look right in terms of contrast and shadow detail. If all or nearly all negs do not look right then you might want to consider future exposure of the film in camera and development.

    Even if this sounds too complicated at the moment the exercise will still get you close to a good contact sheet and if it doesn't then before you take any more film it is time to look at your exposure and development regime.


    pentaxuser

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    53
    Thanks pentaxuser,

    I already cut off and discarded the black bits.

    I think my negatives are look pretty good except for ones where I forgot to pull the lens hood back on a Pentax-A 28mm (got one of those?) so they are vignetted.

    I loosely used the expose for the shadows idea except where I intentionally wanted blacks.

    Which reminds me I need to buy paper developer! I think I'll spend all Christmas Day developing as it is the most boring day in the whole year for me! Bah Humbug!

    I really like the ME Supers, my other one seems to be working although I had a few problems with the shutter curtain partially remaining open and would like to know how to fix it, you can see this below.

    This was the first one I bought, most of the frames were fine (maybe a bit of light leakage on only some of them). Ilford XP2 film developed and scanned in the cheapest of cheapest labs!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And this one not as bad, apologies for the rider not in focus!

    Click image for larger version. 

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