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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnielvis View Post
    3 minutes plus what kind of time developing?

    what you can try is put it directly in the developer--develop to your time and temp...then use a water rinse instead of stop bath...bring the water temp up a bit for the rinse--get it warm to the touch soak it for multiple rinses--give it some agitation to make sure there's enough contact. out with the water--in with new warm water. keep with say 3 or 4 washes of or 3 minutes warm water--you should see color coming out there. do the rest of the process at the warmer temperature too--fixing and washing. the goal is to get it all out before the fixing step. if it's old film, it may take longer, but it eventually all comes out. ideally get it all out before the fix. never use stop bath!
    9 mins, 45 seconds @ 20 C.

  2. #12

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    Water rinse with warm water instead of stop bath? That's practically the same as 2-part developers with the second part being some caustic chemical like carbonate to exhaust the developer trying to bring up the toe of the film. This guy is new to developing. He needs his D-76 to do it's job like Kodak planned it, and halt it hard-and-fast when it's over. By all means, pour in that acetic acid bath and stop development like it hit a brick wall. Pour nothing but warm water in after development can be voodoo to a new guy. I can't agree with that at all.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    They don't use D-76 in those big machines. They use harsher chemistry. Frankly I can't explain the lingering purple of home-developed film, but I've almost always had it. The only thing I've learned from my years is that the pre-wash water always pours out dark, and developer does not, if I don't pre-wash. So that means either the development "sets the stain", or there's some kind of chemical reaction going on. But the fact remains that the pre-wash water pour out nasty and dark, an the film comes out less purple. After that, don't worry about it. I think it fades a little in time. Always more purple when fresh out of the tank, wet.
    You don't have a problem, you did just fine.
    The lab I use offers many different chemical processes to choose from (D-76, TMAX, DDX, XTOL, Adonal, D96, and HC110). I've always selected either D76 or HC110. The negatives come back without even a hint of purple. I never knew there was a purple layer on film before, that's how clear they are.

  4. #14
    RPC
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    Before fixing, my negatives (T-Max sheet film) are always magenta. After fixing for 10 minutes (C-41 fixer) about 90% of the magenta is gone. The rest disappears after about 5-10 minutes of washing, and they are completely clear. All I can recommend is fixing and/or washing longer.

    There used to be a sticky thread on this topic but it disappeared for some reason.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by RPC View Post
    Before fixing, my negatives (T-Max sheet film) are always magenta. After fixing for 10 minutes (C-41 fixer) about 90% of the magenta is gone. The rest disappears after about 5-10 minutes of washing, and they are completely clear. All I can recommend is fixing and/or washing longer.

    There used to be a sticky thread on this topic but it disappeared for some reason.
    I will wash much longer next time. From what I read, my washing time is pretty quick compared to most. Can I use warm water for washing? I have been using cold water out of the tap for my washes.

  6. #16

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    RattyMouse, I've been developing film for 43 years with either D-76 or Microdol, and I'm telling you that you did just fine. Either that, or I'm a total knucklehead. (which is possible).

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    RattyMouse, I've been developing film for 43 years with either D-76 or Microdol, and I'm telling you that you did just fine. Either that, or I'm a total knucklehead. (which is possible).
    Thank you kindly. I am now unconcerned about my results with the purple color. Now I am just interested as a chemist (my day job).

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    Thank you kindly. I am now unconcerned about my results with the purple color. Now I am just interested as a chemist (my day job).
    On my day job, I'm just a nobody printer with dirty hands who must be stupid, or else I'd be doing something else.
    Last edited by Tom1956; 01-04-2014 at 12:47 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    I will wash much longer next time. From what I read, my washing time is pretty quick compared to most. Can I use warm water for washing? I have been using cold water out of the tap for my washes.
    Try to keep all solutions within 2 C of the same temperature - the one you are using for development.

    If you can work at room temperature, than you can use a 5 litre pail of water at that temperature for your wash - just fill, soak and dump 10 times (assuming use of a wash aid).
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Try to keep all solutions within 2 C of the same temperature - the one you are using for development.

    If you can work at room temperature, than you can use a 5 litre pail of water at that temperature for your wash - just fill, soak and dump 10 times (assuming use of a wash aid).
    I have only monitored the temperature of my pre-soak and developer. The acid stop bath, fixing agent, and washes are all done at room temp, probably 18 C or cooler.

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