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  1. #41
    David Allen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    David,

    Thank you for your procedure. I currently have very limited space and even more limited containers. But once I am more set up, I will keep your suggestions in mind.

    Thanks again!
    Hi Rm,

    the sequence I suggested can be accomplished with a bucket of water at 20% and a couple of jugs.

    Dont make your life complicated.

    Bests,

    David
    www.dsallen.de

  2. #42

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    hi rm

    you might do a parlor trick ...

    take a clip from the leader of the film you just processed ..
    the part that was in the camera securing the film to the take up spool
    ( the paer that was cut off / exposed to light and not processed )
    with the lights oh ... stick it in your fixer and see how long it takes to change the greyish black
    clip to clear base .. that should have been half your total fix time.
    split it between 2 baths or all in the same bath ...
    just male sure when you process your film you
    do this fun trick to assure yourself you are fixing your film enough ..
    the number will change as you fix more film
    and fill your fix with silver ...

    have fun
    john
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  3. #43

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    Well, my THIRD attempt looked the best yet. Very nice juicy looking negatives with even less purple color. I did a lot of washing this time. I did 3 fills of the tank with 20 inversions, then filled the tank with 30 C water and let it sit for 10 mins or so and then another 3 fills of the tank with 20 inversions.

    I'm getting there. But I have another question so time for a new thread.....

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    I've never used Kodafix 200 (my local shop has Ilford so I get the 5L bottles of Hypam) but a bit of googling tells me that:
    - Kodafix is (maybe) a rapid fixer: good
    - Kodafix is hardening: bad

    Use of hardening fixers makes washing times much, much longer because it makes the gelatin contract to a dense, hard state which is less permeable. It's possible that your film colouration is due to the presence of hardener slowing the wash process, in which case you're probably under-washing. A hypo clearing agent will help if you used a hardening fixer but should otherwise not be necessary for film.

    Your other thread indicated (oops, just read to the end of that thread). Also if Kodafix is NOT a rapid fixer as according to some posts in your thread, then you will need much much longer fixing times too. Like 10+ minutes.
    I'm gonna ditch this fixer and replace it with something that isnt hardening. My bad luck to grab a bottle of this Kodafix 200. Seems no one uses this much ere.

    Seems VERY odd that Kodak is so vague about this chemical. Not even a data sheet for it.

  5. #45
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    I'm gonna ditch this fixer and replace it with something that isnt hardening. My bad luck to grab a bottle of this Kodafix 200. Seems no one uses this much ere.

    Seems VERY odd that Kodak is so vague about this chemical. Not even a data sheet for it.
    The old Kodafix is described in my 1970 (Edit: and 1977) Kodak Darkroom Dataguide in such a way (same suggested times) as to cause me to believe that it was indeed a rapid fixer - which surprises me.

    I'd suggest you just use it up. The hardener will have a relatively small effect on the purple tint, but otherwise isn't very important for Tri-X.

    Just use a proper clip test and two bath fixing to ensure proper fixing - it is more than capable enough for that.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    I'm gonna ditch this fixer and replace it with something that isnt hardening. My bad luck to grab a bottle of this Kodafix 200. Seems no one uses this much ere.

    Seems VERY odd that Kodak is so vague about this chemical. Not even a data sheet for it.
    This page indicates, that Kodafix 200 solution runs under the product ID 146-4080. As it just so happens, there is an MSDS for this product here. Looking through this MSDS tells immediately, that Kodafix 200 is an acid hardening rapid fixer based on Ammonium Thiosulfate.

    Since the product page specifically recommends this fixer for TMAX and Tri-X, there is no reason why this fixer shouldn't be used.
    Trying to be the best of whatever I am, even if what I am is no good.

  7. #47
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    Yeah, there's no need to get rid of the fixer. Just the fixing times and washing times will be longer than with some other fixers.

  8. #48

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    then filled the tank with 30 C water
    Be careful, as others have already pointed out you should try to keep all chemicals and washes within a few degrees of each other.

  9. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by mwdake View Post
    Be careful, as others have already pointed out you should try to keep all chemicals and washes within a few degrees of each other.
    I dont see why here. By this time my fixing is over and I have washed the film 3 successive times with water out of the tap. There's no way my tap water is temperature controlled. I use warm water to soak the film as I'm told that hardening fixers slow down the washing. A bit of heat, not much, is supposed to help. What potential harm is possible with 30 C water at this stage? As far as I understand, at the washing stage all chemical reactions are over.

  10. #50
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    warm water washes faster and better than cold water, but to go above 27Cis a waste of energyand could harm the emulsion by softening it up and make it vunerable to physical damage,especially if no hardener was used, which is the right thing to do not to impede washing.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

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