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Thread: Pyrocat Hd

  1. #11
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    I have used it a lot for all formats. I do find however that it has a bit more edge affect than I would like on roll film. I generally agitate 10 seconds every minute at about 70º F. For that reason I don't use it when processing other people's roll film. I use Xtol instead. Especially when I have a dark subject in front of a light grey background I get a pronounced plus density edge around the dark subject. Looks a bit like it is an over sharpened jpeg. Works sometimes but not something I always like.
    Dennis

  2. #12
    StoneNYC's Avatar
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    Napoleon, where are you looking? There is so much out there about D-76 easily found...

    Try here...

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart-mobile.php
    ~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong." ~Dennis Miller

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by ann View Post
    I have used this developer for some time. altho, i have used the liquid version.
    Also, used it with 35mm up to 4x5 (which when i started , folks scratched their heads). ALso, use semi-stand and tested for times.
    off the top of my head I don't remember the amounts, but you should be able to find that here on another thread.

    Ann,

    I would like to make sure I am correct before a purchase some. The two part liquid is 10ml of Part A in 500 ml of distilled water and 10 ml of Part B mixed in 500 ml of distilled water then mixed together for 100 ml total of working solution?

  4. #14
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Napoleon View Post
    Ann,

    I would like to make sure I am correct before a purchase some. The two part liquid is 10ml of Part A in 500 ml of distilled water and 10 ml of Part B mixed in 500 ml of distilled water then mixed together for 100 ml total of working solution?
    Your maths is wrong the total water is 1 litre (1000ml). You can just add part A to most of the water (approx 2/3rds) and then add Part B and top up.

    I make mine up 1+1 to 100 so 10ml Part A in about 650-700ml water then after stirring add 10ml Part B finally adding the rest of the water to 1 litre which gives me flexibility to adjust the final temperature before processing.

    Ian

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    Thank You Ian, math is not my strong suit.

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    Even easier: there's not much difference between 980mL and 1000mL. I use a pipette with rubber bulb, and put 10mL of part A into the litre of water, then using the same pipette without rinsing, add 10mL of part B to it. Contaminating Part A with Part B would not be good, of course, but a trace of part A in the part B does no harm.

  7. #17
    Eric Rose's Avatar
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    I use PyroCat-HD for 99% of my film developer needs. Please use the search function prior to asking questions. You will find there is a LOT of very useful information about PyroCat-HD on APUG. If you want to get your information from the horses mouth so to speak visit http://sandykingphotography.com Sandy is the inventor of PyroCat.
    www.ericrose.com
    yourbaddog.com

    "civility is not a sign of weakness" JFK

    "The Dude abides" - the Dude

  8. #18
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_s View Post
    Even easier: there's not much difference between 980mL and 1000mL. I use a pipette with rubber bulb, and put 10mL of part A into the litre of water, then using the same pipette without rinsing, add 10mL of part B to it. Contaminating Part A with Part B would not be good, of course, but a trace of part A in the part B does no harm.
    I use it exactly as John does, but sometimes vary the dilution to 2+2+100, so 1000ml water + 20ml of A and 20ml of B. Total volume will be 1040ml in this case.

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