If I was going to do what it seems to me you want to do is first I would shoot on 35mm Kodak Tmax 3200 or Ilford Delta 3200 and I would process the film in beutlers or Rodinal 1-100 and I would process it so that it needs a contrast boost in printing. Then I would print it on a high contrast setting with VC paper.
They don't make Kodak 3200 anymore... Delta it is! Lol
~Stone | "...of course, that's just my opinion. I could be wrong."~Dennis Miller
There is only color Fuji Film here, Michael. And due to dollar gained %40 in one month , I have to stop ten times to import film. If I become extremelly sure if something works out , I will invest money and 5 weeks waiting.
Is it possible to gain high acutance with Pyro Developer ?
Is it possible to gain high acutance with Pyro Developer ? I think pyro is the only developer I would use in many styles.
ps.Stone ,I am still taking pictures with my Bolex C8 and its an endless endavour. After some try with norwood director , I found it is strange and I am not so intelligent to solve it. I decided to use my XA as a Lightmeter. Its strange to hold bolex with left hand , looking with right eye and taking with right hand and cable. Dollar was 1:1 and now 1:2.4 in 5 years or longer.
ps2. Michael , I dont have any chance to see these chemicals , processes effects without internet and screen.
I have impressed with that image very much. Owner says it was Olympus XA and set to 400 asa and early dark morning , ordered lab d76 1:1 one stop push development.
I am putting a copy here:
Photographer is Mlehrman.
Now I understand what look you are going after. The XA will be fine for an image like that. I was thinking you were after critically sharp high resolution negatives with a hint of grain. What your after can be made with higher speed films like Foma 400, which has fairly well defined grain, and push processing. Also, a little more vigorous agitation might help make the grain more noticeable also. I mentioned Foma 400 simply because it has grain, but the pattern doesn't seem as random as some films are. Also, I'd still use something like Rodinal or a Metol type developer with very little sodium sulfite and more sodium carbonate.