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  1. #1

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    Negatives come out opaque and grey

    Hi all, I'm a very new BW film user and I've just finished developing my third roll. However, there's a major problem: this happened to the third and second roll:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I assume this is a problem with the film loading onto the reel? These undeveloped parts happen after around 25 or 26th frame. I'm using a plastic tank and reel. I stand develop for an hour with one minute rotation at the first and 30 minute mark using 1+100 Parodinal since when I tried to use traditional developing, my negatives came out very thin. I use vinegar stop bath. The fixer, I forgot.
    Gear: Broken Minolta SRT-101 with MC Rokkor 50mm f1.7 | Canon EOS 500 with 50mm f1.8 II, 75-300mm f4-5.6, 24mm f2.8.

  2. #2

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    Yep. That part of the film stuck to another part of the film, so the developer didn't get a chance to work on that section. Happens to the best of us - just be more careful loading next time.

  3. #3
    Vincent Brady's Avatar
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    As a beginner in development of films I think you should go for normal development with agitation every minute. Stand development I gather can be very hit or miss.
    Vincent Brady
    "Visual art is a chase after the invisable and B&W photos remind you of this search for what can't be seen,for what's missing"

  4. #4
    Rick A's Avatar
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    Marks are definitly from the film touching itself, not allowing the developer to reach those spots. Like Vincent, I believe you should learn the basics of processing before delving into alternate procedures. If your negatives came out thin, the problem could be underexposure or under development. The way to check for this is to look at the factory markings on the edge of the film. If your negs are thin, and the markings are normal, that is under exposure, If the markings are weak as well as the image, that is under development.
    Rick Allen
    Argentum aevum

  5. #5
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Please, start with something simple like D-76 and follow manufacturers recommendation for the time and agitation.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  6. #6

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    Thanks everyone for the advice. I have a feeling that my reel is only for 24 exp film. The film becomes difficult to reel in after a certain point. Is that possible? Are there even reels only for 24 exp film? I'm sticking with Parodinal because D-76 is hard to get in my country. Parodinal is available and I can make it at home. I'll stick with standard developing using the Massive Dev Chart times.
    Gear: Broken Minolta SRT-101 with MC Rokkor 50mm f1.7 | Canon EOS 500 with 50mm f1.8 II, 75-300mm f4-5.6, 24mm f2.8.

  7. #7
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Stand development: Pour in the developer and do nothing for a certain period of time, mostly for an hour. By that way, contrast can be tamed to certain extent for very high contrast scenes. Additionally, pronounced edge effects can be seen.
    Last edited by baachitraka; 01-29-2014 at 10:35 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

  8. #8

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    So, um... since my reel is only for 24 exposures, there's no way I can develop 36 exp film until I get a new reel and tank?
    Gear: Broken Minolta SRT-101 with MC Rokkor 50mm f1.7 | Canon EOS 500 with 50mm f1.8 II, 75-300mm f4-5.6, 24mm f2.8.

  9. #9
    Rick A's Avatar
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    Most plastic reels are for 24 or 36 exposure. They almost all become difficult to load all 36 frames. I will add here that you need more practice loading film, so keep shooting and loading, it will get easier with practice. There are many threads about your problem with loading, heres one to get you started.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/1...ping-tank.html
    Rick Allen
    Argentum aevum

  10. #10

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    Lots of people have real problems loading plastic reels, some go to stainless steel.

    If you have left a film in a camera (which employs reverse wind on the take up spool) for a long time it can acquire a reverse set or memory and be very difficult to load onto a spiral.

    You have to feel that the film is moving readily when you move the spiral to load film, if it jams and you use more force it will probably jump out of the groves, with the results you have demonstrated.

    I keep one thumb on the film letting the film slip under thumb to monitor a for jam

    I leave film a few days in the cassette if it has been in a camera for a few days.

    Noel

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