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Thread: Hypo-clear

  1. #41

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    Thanks for all the info on hypo-clear. As for the other topic of water usage, this article in slate covers the issue quite well. Highly recommended. http://www.slate.com/articles/health...verywhere.html

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    The TMY is tougher to fix completely. In actuality, the clips of film I use for the tests are all TMY. When develop Plus-X, I use 2x the TMY clearing time. When I develop TMY, I use 3x the TMY clearing time.
    Under-fixing is something I seriously try to avoid .
    And by clearing - you mean fixing correct? I'm still learning the lingo -

  3. #43
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mporter012 View Post
    And by clearing - you mean fixing correct? I'm still learning the lingo -
    "Clearing" refers to the fact that as you fix the film, the cloudy emulsion visibly changes to clear. So when I fix 2x the clearing time, it means that I put the film clip into the fixer and start the timer. I observe the change of the film clip in the fixer, and when the clip has gone clear, the time that has expired is the clearing time. If that time turns out to be two minutes, my total fixing time will end up being either two or three times that time.

    It is easier to guage whether or not the clip has cleared if you first put a drop of fixer on the clip for a minute, before you drop the entire clip into the fixer and start the timer. The film will have cleared when you can no longer see where the drop of fixer was.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  4. #44
    Terry Christian's Avatar
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    Hypo = Fixer.
    Fixer = Hypo.

    Hypo-clear (also called HCA or Perma-Wash) is so called because it helps to CLEAR (i.e., wash out more readily) the HYPO out of film or paper.

    Pre-wash (optional), developer, stop (or water wash), fixer, hypo-clear (optional).

    Got it?

  5. #45
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    I use 2x for traditional film (Plus-X) and 3x for T-grain film (TMY)
    +1
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  6. #46
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mporter012 View Post
    What are you using 2x and 3x?
    Because it works and clears any blue-purple tinge.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  7. #47

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    As always, read the instructions for using any chemical. Kodak, for example, provides very complete information on how to use their chemicals, including capacity, storage times, etc. Avoid buying no-name chemicals that provide little information.

    For film, after fixing fill the tank with tap water, agitiate for 30 seconds, dump, then add hypoclear and agitate for 2 minutes, then wash with tap water for 5 minutes, then PhotoFlo for 30 seconds (reference: Kodak). For paper, RC paper does not require hypoclear but it helps remove fixer when using fiber paper. In the scheme of things, the cost of hypoclear is negligible so there's no reason not to use it (same goes for indicator stop).

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by mklw1954 View Post
    As always, read the instructions for using any chemical. Kodak, for example, provides very complete information on how to use their chemicals, including capacity, storage times, etc. Avoid buying no-name chemicals that provide little information.

    For film, after fixing fill the tank with tap water, agitiate for 30 seconds, dump, then add hypoclear and agitate for 2 minutes, then wash with tap water for 5 minutes, then PhotoFlo for 30 seconds (reference: Kodak). For paper, RC paper does not require hypoclear but it helps remove fixer when using fiber paper. In the scheme of things, the cost of hypoclear is negligible so there's no reason not to use it (same goes for indicator stop).
    buy good quality chemicals

    fixing is dependent on temperature like development but after more then three minutes in fixer above 15C it is safe to open tank and inspect reel if the film is milky put reel back and inspect reel every minute until milky dissapears then fix for same time more.

    washing is also dependent on temperature...

    Kodak recommends clear for film if you want archival

    an acid stop is ok for prehardened film most film is prehardened - water is safer for non prehardened.

    read kodaks and ilfords data sheets don't listen to web gossip.

  9. #49
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    globalwarming was the biggest hoaks of the 20th century!but a good way to get a government grant approved.what a laugh
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphLambrecht View Post
    globalwarming was the biggest hoaks of the 20th century!but a good way to get a government grant approved.what a laugh
    Hoaks, meaning hoax - but I'll assuming you're being facetious about climate change, being that it's entirely undeniable at this point. The only way one can flippantly deny climate change is to believe that every scientist from every country is involved in some kind of a global scam.

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