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  1. #31
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard ide View Post
    I put my reels (stainless) through the dishwasher every couple of months. No buildup of residue. I have a half gallon of Photo Flo 1:600. I mix it about 1:3000 and give my film a water rinse for a couple of seconds before hanging up to dry. Never a problem with spots. Guess I should order another bottle before I run out. ;<)
    Good for you. I don't own a dish washer, so I can't go that route.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

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  2. #32

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    FWIW, I went the route of trying to use as little Ilfotol as possible in deionised water final rinse (following "internet advice") with inconsistent results and often drying marks.

    Then I did something quite radical and - GASP! - followed the manufacturer's advice.

    With 25ml of Ilfotol in a 5l container of DI water (i.e. Ilford's recommended 1:200 dilution), it seems to foam quite a bit, but the result has now been perfectly clean negatives, every single time

  3. #33

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    One factor to bear in mind is the harness of people's water. The hard water in London rarely gives me many bubbles with photoflo and the same is true of shampoo or bath bubbles. When I visit my parents who have a water soften I'm always surprised when I use my normal amount of shampoo and end up looking like some kind of comedy bubble monster.

  4. #34
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Can I develop ANY B&W film (not chromogenic C-41) with ANY developer? Meaning can I develop a Tri-X with ID-11 for example?
    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]If the answer on the above is yes, were do I find the necessary dilution instructions?
    On the instructions included with the developer

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Do the developers come in different versions according to the film speed, or there Is just one and you play with the volume, dilution etc?
    No, but: you may choose different dilutions to manage development time. More dilute solutions take longer, more concentrated solutions develop faster.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Is it safe to assume that using same brand film+developer will produce the best result?
    No. "Best" is a purely subjective decision/feeling. Some here use coffee as a base for their developer, some use the generic versions, some off-brands. It doesn't matter as long as you get the result you want.

    The advantage for you in using something like ID-11 or D76 or Xtol is that there are a lot of people here that also use them, if you have a question, you can get an answer. Right now I'm experimenting with RolloPyro and the user base is pretty small, tougher for me to get an answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Is "stopping" using just water and not a dedicated stopper advisable?
    Consistency is the most important thing, using a real stop bath can help with consistency. It does also protect the fixer.

    If I were going on vacation and planning to develop film along the way, personally I'd leave the stop bath at home and use water. At home I do use stop bath.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]I was told I should choose 1-2 films and developer and stick with them, trying out different variations of exposures/developing, good advice?
    Yes, photography is a system made up of many parts. Any change you make, anywhere in the system, has an effect on the end result/the print.

    For example this includes lenses. Holga cameras are a lot of fun, but my Holga makes low contrast images so I've learned that I need to add little extra development when I use it, same for my 150SF lens on my Mamiya RB67. Most of the rest of my lenses make more snappy images and don't require extra development.

    The problem is that if you are switching films, developers, papers, blah, blah, blah, at the same time you are switching lenses (or whatever other variable), it becomes a real problem figuring out which piece of the puzzle is causing a problem or a success.

    The advice to stick with one film has two benefits/intents:
    a) eliminate variables
    b) learn what that film is capable of and most films today can do a very good job in most any situation, the differences are not in "quality", only in "character".

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Was thinking of starting out with either Tri-X 400 or T-Max 400, any good developers recommended for them?
    ID-11 is a great choice, it's good enough that you might never need nor want to change. D-76 is just as good, in fact nearly identical to ID-11 in the way it works. Xtol is good too, Tmax, DD-X, ...

    To be blunt here, when starting out, it doesn't matter that much. Yes, developers can make a difference in the print but, to exploit the differences you gotta be pretty good at everything else.

    I would suggest that if you do choose two films, they should be significantly different in ISO rating. So choose Tri-X or Tmax 400, not both. IMO it won't matter which of these you actually start with either. Then depending on your style/subject preferences maybe Tmax 100 or FP4+ or Delta 3200 as the second film.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoakin1981 View Post
    [*]Do you recommend I should go for the 5Ltr developer or the 1Ltr will suffice for some time?
    5
    Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR

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  5. #35
    Jaf-Photo's Avatar
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    Re the photoflo discussion, I mix it in advance and then pour the solution slowly into the tank. Agitation is with the Paterson twirly stick. No bubbles.

  6. #36
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    I soak in photo-flo (8 drops per 500 ml), then hang the negatives and squirt them down with a VERY dilute photo-flo solution (maybe 1-2 drops per 500 ml). Works just fine for me. I've never had a problem with spotting. Perhaps the squirting is entirely unnecessary, but my five-year-old enjoys it (it is her darkroom "chore").

  7. #37
    rubyfalls's Avatar
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    I also use distilled water as our tap water is positively chunky.

  8. #38
    fotch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    I guess it depends on how you use it. I keep tempered water in a separate bowl, and I add the appropriate amount of wetting agent to it.
    Then off the reel I see saw the length of the film through the solution, ten times. No bubbles.
    Me to, that keeps the reel out of the photo flow.
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