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  1. #1
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Help finding development time...

    I have checked in the digitaltruth.com and there is no information about developing Kentmere 400 at ISO 1600 with Ilford HC. So I tried by guessing and I got it.

    Now I shot a Kantmere 400 at ISO 3200 and the same problem again. No info found about development time. So I need help on guessing how long time should I try as development time now.

    So using 1+31 Ilford HC 20C at ISO 400 the development time is 8min
    The same but at ISO 800 the the time is 12.5 min.
    The same at ISO 1600 the time I guessed and got right is between 18 and 19 min.

    Now at ISO 3200, how long time would you suggest me to try?
    I am thinking about between 26min and 29min(???). But if I can get help on think about it would be nice.

  2. #2
    Kevin Caulfield's Avatar
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    Try 30 mins and you will be fine.

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Caulfield View Post
    Try 30 mins and you will be fine.

    Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
    Thanks... I feel more in the right the path now.

    I actually will try 28min since I might have overexposed a bit when shooting in the snow.

    I show the results here later on.

  4. #4
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    At 30 minutes, 2 minutes either way won't make a big difference.
    It takes a big dog to weigh a ton.

    I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now.

  5. #5
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfohl View Post
    At 30 minutes, 2 minutes either way won't make a big difference.
    Thanks to let me know. It is the first time I am developing a negative for longer than 20min. I am used to develop for less than 10 min in most cases...

  6. #6

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    There would appear to be a consistent factor of 50% extra here for each stop which you have probably worked out so that would suggest between 27 and 29 mins and as others have said a difference of even 2 mins at these times will be fairly slight.

    pentaxuser

  7. #7
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Thanks... Here are some results.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1939702_10203206690107429_1357155079_n.jpg 
Views:	57 
Size:	88.8 KB 
ID:	84401

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1506534_10203206690387436_967012210_n.jpg 
Views:	59 
Size:	39.2 KB 
ID:	84402

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1975050_10203206690667443_1799763701_n.jpg 
Views:	56 
Size:	49.6 KB 
ID:	84403

  8. #8
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Following BTZS, here is how I do it:
    1.assume that box speed -2/3EV is correct and shoota few tonal range scenes on 5 rolls or sheets.Yhen developthem at 4,5.5,8,11 and 16 minutesLook at the resulting negatives to determine the best dev time.interpolate as necessary.90%of my film tests end upwith box speed -2/3 EV and 10-12min in D761+1 in rotation on the Jobo.
    all the best
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  9. #9
    ROL
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    Quote Originally Posted by marciofs View Post
    Thanks... Here are some results.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1939702_10203206690107429_1357155079_n.jpg 
Views:	57 
Size:	88.8 KB 
ID:	84401

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1506534_10203206690387436_967012210_n.jpg 
Views:	59 
Size:	39.2 KB 
ID:	84402

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1975050_10203206690667443_1799763701_n.jpg 
Views:	56 
Size:	49.6 KB 
ID:	84403
    I am unsure as to your reason for posting these. The developing looks adequate to me. The exposures seem otherwise. I wouldn't say snow overexposure is an issue. The pictures themselves put me in the mind of mid last century, noir–y, true detective magazines. Very harsh, super contrasty, and no shadow detail. If that was your goal – mission accomplished. Are these 120?

  10. #10
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROL View Post
    I am unsure as to your reason for posting these. The developing looks adequate to me. The exposures seem otherwise. I wouldn't say snow overexposure is an issue. The pictures themselves put me in the mind of mid last century, noir–y, true detective magazines. Very harsh, super contrasty, and no shadow detail. If that was your goal – mission accomplished. Are these 120?
    The snow doesn't look over exposed to me. Do you have a good example of a well exposed snow ground so I can compare?

    I think the high contrast and very low shadow detail is expected since we are talking about pushing 3 stops. But the red filter I used was the actually main influence.

    My goal was to get more grain but I actually love what I got. The "aggressive" look.

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