B&W reversal day. some FP4 and Xtreme 100
on jury duty, so took the week off (lucky me!). luckily I didn't get called into court so had the day to myself. decided to shoot a few rolls and reversal process 'em for fun. I shot a roll of FP4 35mm and two rolls of Xtreme 100, one 35mm and one 120. developed all 3 at the same time. they seem very similar to me when comparing the fp4 and the x100. If I had to guess, I would say that harmon makes the film for ultrafine. The major difference is the lack of, or a very thin A H layer on the X100. look at the pict below, at the shutter button on the pentax 67 (you can really see it if you zoom in). also, when I process the film normally (as a neg) and do a pre-soak, the water comes out clear, unlike kodak, fuji, ilford and foma. so maybe that will give you smarter detective types a better idea of who makes the film or what emulsion it could be.
scanning them (I know its taboo, but thought I would just throw this out there), I find that the both films give less grain when compared to a scanned neg of the same emulsion. Not sure why but it seems that way to my eyes.
But the joy was projecting them. both 35mm slides showed great contrast, amazing detail and was a joy to look at. The 120 slide, which was cut down just a little to fit in a Gepe 6x6 mount, was awesome! after this, I'm gonna start shooting more B&W and rev process them as I had a great time seeing them projected. here are a few examples.....
Xtreme 100 120
Xtreme 100 12
Xtreme 100 35mm
What reversal process did you use?
If E6 dies I'll be reversal processing some black and white just so I can continue to project slides.
these have an unexpectedly [to me, at least] rich tonality. nice work,
btw - I was the guy that asked about your process walking out of keeble
You've done really well. My first attempt saw the emulsion separate from the substrate. I know how you felt after projecting your pictures. A good black and white 'slide' gets lots of oh and ahh's from the audience.
Cheers - Andy C
16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.
Fomapan R100 is a panchromatic film designed for reversal with a colorless base. It is available in 35mm 36 exp and longer rolls. Foma publishes their formulas for the reversal processing.
Originally Posted by Roger Cole
Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 04-22-2014 at 01:40 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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~Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Well, I looked over a lot of posts on many different sites, read many PDF's from various film makers and then did many experiments, lots of trial and error, as well as asked manny people. I found that the 2 films I used above gave me the best results with the least fuss. Both can be done at same 1st developer solution and the X100 film is actually cheap. so my process is based largely on a post from a peter carter who gave his process for Orwo 54 on flickr. I'm using a patterson tank system and usually mix up 1 liter at a time .
Originally Posted by Roger Cole
1) dektol used 1:2 to make a liter. mix a hypo solution that is 6.5 grams in 250 ml distilled water. add 6ml of the hypo mixture to the dektol. this really does foam up a lot durring agitation, so every once in a while I'll take the top off and let it foam up and the get some of it out. I do a steady constant agitation for 12 minutes to build contrast.
2) do a water wash. 5, 15 and 25 inversions
3) Bleach. as was mentioned above the first time I did it my emulsion washed off. so I halved the strength and lengthened the time and it has worked out great. Mix up the bleach in 2 parts, 500ml each. keep em seperate until time to use. I add them together at same time. it is not real stable but can be used up to 4 times once mixed if used within a few hours of being mixed together. Part A is 500 ml water with 3g of Potassium dichromate and part 2 is the acid, 500ml water with 12.5 grams Sodium Bisulphate. I got the Sodium Bisulphate at a pool supply company as pool acid. slow constant agitation for 10 minutes. Your leader (when complete) should be clear. if not, you have not bleached enough.
4) water wash 5, 15 and 25 inversions
5) Clear. 1 liter of water with 30 grams of Sodium Sulphite. agitate for 5 minutes. This can be saved and used up to 6 times. extend a little after the 2nd use, about 15%. . If you see black spots in light areas of your image, try increasing the clear time.
6) water wash, 5 15 and 25 inversions
7) Iron out step. I use a chemical reversal instead of a light exposure method. It also does the fix for me. just easier and for me, a little more idiot proof. use Iron out rust remover, which I got at Lowes. its primary ingredient is sodium hydrosulfite aka sodium dithionite. I use 1 teaspoon for every 200 ml of water in my tank. easy, yes, but it does smell funny. You must use distilled water as the Iron out will react to tap water! this is 1 shot, so use and dump.
8) water wash 5, 15 and 25 inversions.
9) photo flow for a minutes. DO NOT USE A SQUEEGEE! you run the risk of losing your image. just take out and hang to dry. I let em dry for an extra hour than usual to make sure the emulsion hardens nicely.
**** when you are done you should mix the clear and the bleach together before dumping, to neutralize the bleach.*******
this system has worked for me with repeatable results when using orwo 54, FP4, Xtreme 100 and 400. I tried a few other films but got real dark results. my guess is the dektol needs to be mixed a little stronger, like maybe 1:1. but I'm happy at this point with the 3 films so I use them and will keep it simple.
small world. nice to be able to put a face with a name!
Originally Posted by dasBlute
Very nice results! One of these days I'll give it a try.
I did some experiments a while back with FP4 and came up with some good results. Nice to see someone else getting some nice results too!
I wish B&W reversal chems were more commonly available pre-measured and ready to mix. Formulary has a kit, I believe. Anyone used it successfully?
It says it's only for T-Max films. What happens if you use it with, say, FP4+, it explodes or something? Also, the description is awful and basically non-sensical:
"The reversal process will produce excellent positives from one to two stops higher with the same development time; however negatives will be a thin positive. "
WTF? "Negatives are a thin positive??" I get "results are a positive" is what they mean, but they are either thin or not, and "one to two stops higher" means what exactly? One to two stops higher film speed like TMX at 200 or 400 and TMY (-2?) at 800 or 1600?
It's also fairly expensive at $28.75 plus shipping for enough for four rolls.
Last edited by Roger Cole; 04-22-2014 at 11:18 PM. Click to view previous post history.