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  1. #11
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    I used to process in deep tanks for custom stuff in a custom lab many years ago. It worked really well for most things but at times, when in a hurry I'd loose a sheet down to the deep depths of the tank. Other than the lost sheet, it was nice and even. At one point, I was thinking of getting a nitrogen burst for home but sanity kicked in (by the better half).

    I have a couple of tanks I still use at home when I want to do a large batch and not wanting to do tray processing of them. Just don't do it much anymore as the amount of chem needed, 4 litres per tank, never gets exhausted before expiring due to oxidation. Roller based porcessing on most occassions or tray processing is what I do nowadays. When I do get nostalgic, I swap back into tank processing. Dip and dunk .. and not just donuts

  2. #12

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    As for too tight... I have yet to find a bad hanger that way.

    Everyone finds a pros and cons list for their own working method... I still haven't had a piece of sheet film jump out of the hangers. But who knows, live and learn I guess.

    I've been processing sheet film this way for over a decade, and while I still haven't seen amazing results when 35mm is developed this way (surge marks from the sprocket holes), for sheet film I like it.

    Is it only 5x7 that you would be developing?? I could ask around and see if anyone has some hangers that could be donated to your cause... Lemme know.

    joe

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark
    Is there anyway to inspect the hangers to see which are too tight?
    i'm sure there is a way, but i have no idea what it might be ...
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  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian
    i'm sure there is a way, but i have no idea what it might be ...
    I'd say take an out-take, drop it in and see if it has a bit of room to move about...

    If not = too tight
    Falls out = too lose
    Just a bit of movement = just right.

    joe

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Symchyshyn
    <snip>
    I only use PMK with water presoak and fixer.

    I load up the hangers and make sure that the emulsion side goes onto the hanger side that has all the holes drilled in it. If I don't do this, I find I get strange agitation marks... By rotating the emulsion out to this more open side, even development is achieved.

    I load up 5 hangers (20 sheets) and put them off to the side... I then grab a large elastic band and put it around the whole group of hangers over the middle bar. This creates 1 unit to hang onto... I started this because I was leary about not being able to fit it all into the small tank in the dark. 5 JUST fits in... I could stop doing it now due to experience, but I'm used to it so it's part of a routine I guess...
    <snip>
    ... Again, perfectly even development.

    Any questions, feel free to PM me... Good luck!

    joe

    Joe,
    Would you be kind enough to share some details about your timing and agitation scheme? Do you tilt, or simply lift the hangers when you agitate... or am I not getting the fact that you have a burst agitation system? Thanks.
    Celac.

  6. #16

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    I used to use tank/hanger development for 4x5 without any problem. Hangers were a mix of used ones gotten off of Ebay and tanks were square, plastic containers those mini-eclairs come in from Sam's club (I can't rave enough about those containers -- absolutely flatbottomed, tight closing lid, white colored so any dirt is visible, etc...) In a pinch, I could develop 12 sheets at a time, but 10 was easier and more the norm. The ends of the hangers over shot the container enough that I could easily run my hands up along the sides of the container and catch all the hangers on my index fingers for lifting clean out.

    Initial entry/agitation of hangers was by rapid dipping of all the hangers into the soup 5 or 6 times and a final "drop" of the hangers with several sharp raps of the hand across all their tops to dislodge air bubbles. Agitation was a couple more gentle lifts while tilting side to side and then a third time with a "drop" and rap.

    I developed like this for over a year without any problems of constancy but eventually moved to tray processing because it uses less chemistry and I found temp control easier. I have a cold darkroom in winter and dropping 10 SS hangers into (comparatively) heated soup did weird, unpredictable things to it's temperature. Even with a water bath, It was always guesswork just how much hotter to start with in order to average about 68 degrees throughout the process.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by pelerin
    Joe,
    Would you be kind enough to share some details about your timing and agitation scheme? Do you tilt, or simply lift the hangers when you agitate... or am I not getting the fact that you have a burst agitation system? Thanks.
    Celac.
    No I don't use a nitrogen burst system... Just the standard lift agitation method.

    Ok, so all the hangers are linked together with the elastic band in another tank on my work table. I've prepared all the chemistry and water bath before loading the hangers, I'm ready to go.

    Presoak

    I take the unit of 5 hangers and go to the water soak. I agitate smoothly but consistantly (not too hard and fast - hard to describe) for a continuous 30 second cycle. Agitation is up and out of the tank, turn to a side, back in completely, back out, turn to the other side... (Drips off the corner) When the agitation cycle ends the hangers top arms (the part that hangs over the top edge) get tapped on the top of the tank to release any bubbles on the film. Agitation is 5 seconds every 30 seconds for the 2 minute pre soak.

    Development

    (I vary agitation so I will describe it like this... The top of the dial is 12:00, the X:45 mark is 9:00, the X:30 mark is 6:00, the X:15 mark is 3:00.) Boy I'm making this sound difficult aren't I??

    PMK requires a lot of agitation, every 15 seconds... MY method is to do the first 30 seconds like the water presoak. When the timer is at 3:00 I simply lift it up and down about an inch, up and down for 5 seconds. When the dial gets to the 12:00 I do the complete agitation. The dial then goes to the 9:00 mark and back to the 1 inch up and down for 5 seconds...

    I found that too much agitation (all the way up, and all the way out) for EVERY cycle was giving me some sporatic surge marks over the hanger edge. By slowing down some of the agitation, it all went away and my film is remarkably even now. I'm no longer reluctant to shoot things on perfectly even backgrounds and develop this way.

    If I've made this more complex than I needed, let me know and I'll try to explain it another way.

    joe

    BTW, I always use surgeon's gloves to do my processing... Never barehanded.

  8. #18

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    Joe,

    Right now, yes 5x7 will be the only thing I do this way. I have a combi-plan tank for 4x5 if I shoot 4x5 BW. This sounds like it might definately be worth a try. I looked at the link you posted for the skinny tanks and I have it on my watch list but they look like they might fall over. Is this a problem with the skinny tanks.

    I have not done an ebay search-I am banned from ebay right now so I have wait until when the wife is out to look at it

    Just surfing the used photo sites I have not found any 5x7 hangers. Are these difficult to come by, and is rust a problem I should totally avoid in the hangers? I suppose, if one wanted to, they could do stand processing in these right?
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  9. #19
    Ole
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    I thought I had some 5x7" hangers, but they turned out to be 13x18cm instead. Since I had bought then (2nd-hand) in Norway, they could have been either.

    This is one case where 5x7" and 13x18cm are definitely not interchangable!
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark
    Right now, yes 5x7 will be the only thing I do this way... This sounds like it might definately be worth a try. I looked at the link you posted for the skinny tanks and I have it on my watch list but they look like they might fall over. Is this a problem with the skinny tanks.

    Just surfing the used photo sites I have not found any 5x7 hangers. Are these difficult to come by, and is rust a problem I should totally avoid in the hangers? I suppose, if one wanted to, they could do stand processing in these right?
    5x7 is definitely not as popular a format in so far as hangers would be concerned... I'll take a look around and see if I can dig something up for you.

    As far as the slim tanks tipping over... Because I use only the slim one for developer, I duct tape it to a heavy hard rubber tank turned upside down. This gives it a big footprint and I never worried about it falling over. (I did consider the tipping over issue initially but thought a piece of tape was a good answer to it...)

    Rust a problem?? I've yet to have any rust hangers. I've seen some with some corrosion when bought used, but they cleaned up really well and I now maintain them well, so no further problems.

    I've never done stand processing, but assume that one could use this system as well.

    Good luck

    joe

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