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  1. #11

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    Rodinal, HC110 etc

    A good site to understand b&w developers is the site Erwin Puts.
    He is also a great defender of film based photography.

    You can find his site on http://www.imx.nl/
    And see the section: choose film and developer wisely.

    JanKÚ

  2. #12
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NikoSperi
    These are two identical shots, using the same camera, on the same film, with the same exposure. The only difference is one is developed in HC110B and the other in Rodinal 1:50
    I'm afraid I got lost. The above indicates one frame developed in HC110, and the other in Rodinal. These were both were developed in Rodinal?

    See the "Critique" gallery. My Nude #47 was taken on AgfaPan APX 400 and developed in Rodinal 1:50.
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  3. #13
    NikoSperi's Avatar
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    The frame here is a composite of two negatives of the same teapot - there is just one teapot in reality. The pot on the left is from the negative souped in Rodinal, the one on the right from the neg done in HC110.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Developer-Comparison.jpg  
    If you tone it down alot, it almost becomes bearable.

    - Walker Evans on using color

  4. #14
    noblebeast's Avatar
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    Since you said you are looking for greater acutance, try HC110 at a higher dilution (1:63) and try a semi-stand development. Basically you start with a time double that of dilution B and you only agitate every two minutes for fifteen seconds. I use this with Tri-X and really like the results. The only part that I still find needs improvement in my negatives is shadow detail so I'm thinking of letting the film stand in the developer a little while longer after I'm done with the agitations - so for example if my normal time with the agitation is ten minutes I will leave the film in the developer for an extra five or ten minutes without agitation to see if the shadows develop a bit more contrast. Many people get good results with Rodinal and stand development - there is a thread about it, do a search for 'stand development' and you will find it. In summary, if acutance and better edge effects is what you're looking for, many people say stand or semi-stand development is the way to achieve it.

    Joe
    Latent Images Plastic Toy Cameras

    "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive" - Howard Thurman

  5. #15
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
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    I"ll go further than that -- try your HC-110 at Dilution G, 1:119 from USA Syrup (or 1:29 from stock solution, or close enough to go 1:3 from Dilution B if you're using European concentrate). Agitate continuously the first minute, then every 3 minutes, for 3 times the dilution B time.

    Now, if you want grain, this is *not* the way to go -- my TMY comes out with grain so fine I can't find it in a 1:1 crop of a 2400 ppi scan. But, I get sharpness that, in the plane of critical focus, still looks single-pixel sharp in that same 1:1 crop, and excellent tonality (once I nailed the development time).

    It is important, when using dilution weaker than Dilution F (1:79) that you use extra working solution with 35 mm, to ensure you have at least 3 ml of USA syrup, or 12 ml stock solution per roll of film -- but that's easily done, with 35 mm, by developing a single roll in a two-reel tank, with empty reel as a spacer.

    I hope to get some Rodinal and try it at some point, especially with ISO 100 film where grain won't be a problem -- but for the images I like to make on Tri-X and TMY, HC-110 G has been all the developer I want or need.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

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