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  1. #11
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JW PHOTO View Post
    Roger, have you tried the brown toner? I'd like to get some, but in doing a search I didn't find out much about it. I also searched Kentmere Brown Toner since Freestyle says that's what it is, but not much on that either. JW
    Yes I use it all the time - probably over half my prints. Any time I print on Ilford MGWT I almost always tone in highly dilute brown toner. There are some threads about it here, and scans of a few prints on my Flickr.

  2. #12

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    There's nothing secret anymore about the Kodak formulas. The packaging might be a little different, but so what?

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    Yes I use it all the time - probably over half my prints. Any time I print on Ilford MGWT I almost always tone in highly dilute brown toner. There are some threads about it here, and scans of a few prints on my Flickr.
    Thanks Roger! I think I'll try a bottle on my next order. I have enough potassium ferricyanide and thiourea to last my lifetime, but would like to just have one bottle of selenium and one bottle of brown/sepia toner sitting on the shelf to help keep it simple. Do you have to alter your exposure much with the Legacy Brown Toner to have your prints come out the way you like? JW

  4. #14
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JW PHOTO View Post
    Thanks Roger! I think I'll try a bottle on my next order. I have enough potassium ferricyanide and thiourea to last my lifetime, but would like to just have one bottle of selenium and one bottle of brown/sepia toner sitting on the shelf to help keep it simple. Do you have to alter your exposure much with the Legacy Brown Toner to have your prints come out the way you like? JW
    I don't really alter my exposure at all. I do alter the dilution, something I got from Drew Wiley here or over on LFPF. According to Rudman's toning book brown toner becomes MORE active when more dilute. That may be but there has to be a point of diminishing returns. I also found, contrary to what others report, that it simply didn't last long once mixed so using it at 1/4 to 1/8th strength is much more economical.

    I tone for short periods, 15 seconds to a minute depending on temperature and how much toning I want. Here's a pretty much fully toned photo of my then-girlfriend, now wife:

    Alicia Park Bench - Toned1 by Roger Cole, on Flickr

    And here's a lightly toned print of one of my friends:

    Max by Roger Cole, on Flickr

    Both on MGWT developed in Harman WT developer, the only difference as far as tone being the time and dilution of the brown toner.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Cole View Post
    I don't really alter my exposure at all. I do alter the dilution, something I got from Drew Wiley here or over on LFPF. According to Rudman's toning book brown toner becomes MORE active when more dilute. That may be but there has to be a point of diminishing returns. I also found, contrary to what others report, that it simply didn't last long once mixed so using it at 1/4 to 1/8th strength is much more economical.

    I tone for short periods, 15 seconds to a minute depending on temperature and how much toning I want. Here's a pretty much fully toned photo of my then-girlfriend, now wife:

    Alicia Park Bench - Toned1 by Roger Cole, on Flickr

    And here's a lightly toned print of one of my friends:

    Max by Roger Cole, on Flickr

    Both on MGWT developed in Harman WT developer, the only difference as far as tone being the time and dilution of the brown toner.
    I like the looks of not being over-cooked and also you saying you're not altering your development times. Right up my alley! Going on my next order for sure. Thanks, JW

  6. #16
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsdunek View Post
    They are now made in Dexter, Michigan, about 15 miles from where I live. Years ago it was Unicolor. Are they the company in the UK?
    I don't know if their products are sold in the UK now, but PSInc make Unicolor and Legacy Pro products in the US and have been around since about 1973.

    Ian

  7. #17

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    It is simpler buying a set of micro scales safety glasses gloves and mixing up from published formulas.

    As things contract you may have to do this eventually.

    You do have to use the best formula eg the buffered D76 a Kodak formula keeps better then the more normal Kodak formula I think the latter is a deep tank formula.

    Eventually ingredients may stop being available as photo chemicals and you may need to buy as chem reagents.

    I use ID-68 a D76 clone cause I have bad allergies already, it has less fog but no other detectable differences, some of the other clones are low fog.

    http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photogr...6_variants.htm

  8. #18
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    Simpler? Huh??

    No. It may be cheaper, and it has other advantages - you can make up things not made commercially anymore, or that may be out of stock, you can tweak the formulas, and you can always have fresh chemistry. But it certainly is never simpler. Simplest is "open a pack of powder or bottle of concentrate and dilute as needed."

  9. #19

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    Where I live some chemistry and film is intermittent already.

    Forma film never in stock in formats and speed I want, any bulk I need to order... The University students clean out the shelves when they are given next projects.

    That makes life difficult.

    CD3 etc I need to order from Germany, Kodak have stopped ECN kits resently...

    Note this is central London.

    Yes a Kodak HCA yellow package is easy today but Kchrome25 used to be in all chemist/pharmacy shops. I used to have a C41 lab within walking distance.

    Nothing will be the same again.

    Weighting out chemicals is easy.
    [OT]
    I really like toned photos as well...

  10. #20
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    I have to order everything. But really, considering the amount of non-photo stuff I order that I COULD buy locally, even for a comparable price, "have to" seems needlessly whiney. I make a few mouse clicks and it shows up at my door usually, when I consider I'd have to find time to go shop for the stuff and fight Atlanta traffic, sooner than I'd be able to get it myself anyway.

    I order everything. Can't get it locally anyway but that never bothered me. Where I lived in the 90s I couldn't buy locally then either, for most things I used.

    Either you have to order the pre-mixed chemicals or you have to order the components. Either way you have to order.

    I'm not arguing against mixing your own if someone wants to do that and in fact I've been very tempted and may once the basement/darkroom buildout is complete and I have more room. It certainly has advantages as I said, but simplicity isn't one of them. (Don't need HCA anyway, some sulphite and water does nicely.)

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