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  1. #11
    hortense's Avatar
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    Fred Picker's book "Zone VI Workshop" is availble from Amazon.com for about 3-bucks.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirk Keyes
    Overexposure is not the same as over-development. If it is over-exposure, then you are going down the wrong trail to solve your problem. The only way to solve over-expsoure is to give the film less exposure.

    So is it really over-exposure, or is it over-development?

    Kirk - www.keyesphoto.com
    Kirk,
    Thanks for pointing that out...I assume overdevelopment because the same camera/film/meter used with ID-11 yields consistently good results (for me).

    Kent
    Max Power, he's the man who's name you'd love to touch! But you mustn't touch! His name sounds good in your ear, but when you say it, you mustn't fear! 'Cause his name can be said by anyone!

  3. #13
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    Update

    So I had a kick at Les Meehan's method and I found it really helpful. Keep in mind that this is the first 'logical' approach that I've made to getting EIs and dev times sorted.

    The first roll of FP4+ was exposed using a baseline EI of 125 and souped in Rodinal at 1+50 for 13 mins. I got (as with previous tries) overexposure and overdevelopment. Meehan's method indicated 2/3 stop overexposure and 2 stops overdevelopment.

    I just finished analysing the second roll, exposed at a baseline EI of 200 and developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 11 mins (a 15% reduction in dev time). According to Meehan's method, the Zone I exposure at an EI of 200 is bang on, but the appropriate Zone VIII exposure indicates 2/3 stop overdevelopment.

    Right, now the question: My Zone I is spot on, but my Zone VIII is still overcooked. If I reduce dev time by 2/3 of a stop (10%) my Zone VIII frame will be better, what will the effect on my Zone I frames be?. Will they be slightly underdeveloped? Will they be virtually, or slightly, changed?

    Thanks,
    Kent
    Max Power, he's the man who's name you'd love to touch! But you mustn't touch! His name sounds good in your ear, but when you say it, you mustn't fear! 'Cause his name can be said by anyone!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Power
    what will the effect on my Zone I frames be?. Will they be slightly underdeveloped? Will they be virtually, or slightly, changed?Thanks, Kent
    Your Zone 1 expsoure will not be underdeveloped by definition if you have found the proper development time. However, the density of it should be a little less than your last test. Not a lot less, and perhaps not enough to change your exposure index.

    But you may want to try some tests with an EI of both 200 and 250.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Power


    Right, now the question: My Zone I is spot on, but my Zone VIII is still overcooked. If I reduce dev time by 2/3 of a stop (10%) my Zone VIII frame will be better, what will the effect on my Zone I frames be?. Will they be slightly underdeveloped? Will they be virtually, or slightly, changed?

    Thanks,
    Kent
    I wouldn't worry about it. The "sparkle" of a print comes from the high values not the lows.
    The testing method that Mr.Mehan uses isn't original to him. See The Negative by Ansel Adams and The Zone VI Workshop by Fred Picker. Just about any book on the Zone System will have similar testing proceedures.

  6. #16
    Max Power's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies,
    Actually I just came out of the darkroom where I printed one of the frames that was at the end of the last roll of FP4+ exposed at an EI of 200 and souped in HotRod at 1+50 for 11 mins. I printed it once on Ilford MG without a filter and once with a 2.5 filter and they came out identically. I'm quite happy with this

    I just can't believe that I'm exposing FP4+ at an EI of 200 and souping it in HotRod and getting very pleasing results. If I'm not mistaken, most photogs expose at about 100!

    Kent
    Max Power, he's the man who's name you'd love to touch! But you mustn't touch! His name sounds good in your ear, but when you say it, you mustn't fear! 'Cause his name can be said by anyone!

  7. #17

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    Hi
    Both Fred Pickers and my own description of testing procedures are directly attributable to Ansel Adams in 'The Negative'. They still work perfectly!

    Regards

    Les Meehan

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by ElrodCod
    I wouldn't worry about it. The "sparkle" of a print comes from the high values not the lows.
    The testing method that Mr.Mehan uses isn't original to him. See The Negative by Ansel Adams and The Zone VI Workshop by Fred Picker. Just about any book on the Zone System will have similar testing proceedures.
    I hope no one thinks I claim originality for the testing methods on my zone2tone site (of course I claim originality on my writing). I always give credit to the originators of the zone system, Ansel Adams and Fred Archer, everyone that has followed has simply done that 'followed'.

    Regards

    Les

  9. #19
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    I've had a go at testing using Mr. Meehan's site and I too have found it very helpful. I was attracted to it for its pragmatic method of getting zones on paper and not having to rely on a densitometer

  10. #20

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    Hi Max,
    Unlike others contributing to this thread, my tests ( with a densitometer) show that Delta 100 and Rodinal do not work well together. The Exposure Density curve has a J type shape, with low contrast in the shadow tones increasing progressively towards the highlights. This gives depressed middle tones and over dense highlights. In addition the speed is just average, and grain greater than D76 or XTOL.
    Suggestion: for superb results with Delta 100 try rating it at 64 and develop in Perceptol 1+2, 14 minutes at 20 degrees C. The ED curve has a nice friendly S shape and sharpness is amazing with super fine grain.
    For a more general purpose combination try a speed rating of 100 and develop in XTOL 1+1 for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C. This gives almost the same grain and sharpness but with a bit more speed.
    Good luck.
    AndrewS

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