Making Prints Cooler
It might just be because I am a contrarian but every print I get out gives me the thought of "It needs to be cooler (in tone)!". I am not looking for a cyan print, I don't even want a blue shift in the whites, I would just like it to be more punchy.
I have tried printing on Cooltone paper (Ilford RC), but to be completely honest it doesn't seem to be at all different (I used the same MG developer but doubled dev time, black tones are same but the paper base is still the normal warm).
I have found various "cool" developers but I would rather not have to separate my print processes like that, and wonder how much more effective they would be anyway?
So I was wondering if anyone has any tips for this? I am going to be trying selenium toning soon (not because of this, just been trying to get some experience before I add another step to my printing), but I don't think that this will help in this way?
Last edited by kaantuncel; 06-25-2014 at 05:41 PM. Click to view previous post history.
You could bleach the highlights.
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I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
Toning. If you aren't toning you will never get much besides very subtle variations out of most papers. Try selenium toning those prints on Cooltone (note - I haven't tried this having not printed on Cooltone but it cools most neutral papers nicely.) Gold toner will give you a very cold tone with some cool papers.
Like Roger says, if you want the blacks cooler, you need to replace silver with some other metal, which means toning. Selenium is cooler and very archival, gold is more-blue but not archival AFAIK. Different papers respond quite differently to each toner, so you'll probably want to do a bunch of experimentation. Tim Rudman has an excellent book on toning, if you can find a copy.
Note that most metallic toners are much more toxic than the rest of the B&W process and you need to be very careful with them.
Gold is very much an "archival" toner.
Originally Posted by polyglot
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Making Prints Cooler
I have the Rudman book and it's excellent.
But the place to start is yo get some rapid selenium toner. There are multiple threads here about dilutions, times, avoiding stains etc.
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Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw
much more than Se in fact.
I have every Rudman book, and they are all excellent.
I also have an original 'morning light' Yosemite by Tim Rudman...
I have the huge pleasure of looking at it everyday, which I do, a phenominal printer, photographer, alchemist, Doctor and Gentleman.
Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited :
I never tire of saying this but the best "cold combo" I ever found was Ilford CT RC and Ilford's own CT developer.
It's a great pity it didn't sell enough to make it viable. Prints from that combo were almost "ice cold" and had the kind of look that only gold toning might come close to achieving.
I wouldn't have wanted most of my prints to look that way so would only occasionally have bought the paper and developer.
Perhaps too many others felt the same way to make the CT developer viable but it is strange that if the CT paper is worth producing and it clearly is, why the CT developer which complements its so well can't be made at a profit
From extensive testing, there is no other paper developer I'm aware of that gives the same results as Harman Cooltone; they must be using some proprietary technique or chemical.
Originally Posted by pentaxuser