zone vi chemicals
Is anyone using zone vi chemicals, specifically the film/paper fixer? Does it have a hardener?
It's about 1/2 the price of kodak rapid fix so I am curious how good it is.
I used the Zone-VI chemicals for quite a long time now. Specifically the the Zone-VI dev. at 1:3 for graded paper and 1:4 for VC paper. It's a clean working dev. and lasts quite well. The fixer they sell has hardener in it. Since I do alot of processing I've since switched to straight sodium thiosulfate with 25g/tray(64oz.) of bisufite added for prints. For negatives I'm using FineArtsPhotoSupply Tabular Fixer. This works very well with pyro and regularly developed negs. and has shortened my fixing time for both (about 4 minutes with Tri-X) The seller claims it will fix about 150 4x5 negs./gallon but I opt to go 50-60 and it holds up very well. I'm not sure if this is close to TF-4 formulary fixer but Anthony is alot closer to me for the shipping(Rochester,NY) and it works REALLY well.It's well priced too. More people should try this fixer.
TF-4 is a GREAT all-round fixer to work with. It's faster than EK Rapid Fix and is not acidic. There are a number of dealers that sell it besides the formulary .
To peters: I'm not quite sure about the merits of using only Hypo to fix anything on it's own. As a second print fix bath, OK but all by itself??
I am not sure whether Calumet has changed any of the Zone VI formulations since they purchased the company from Fred Picker. Fred stated quite openly that the fixer that he sold was plain hypo just like everyone else's. He said that his was less expensive.
On the subject of using sodium thiosulfate as the primary fixer...that depends on whether one is fixing film or paper. Sodium thiosulfate with the addition of sodium sulfite (32 oz -4oz) per gallon works very well as a paper fixer. In the case of film the recommendations are to use Ammonium Thiosulfate (rapid fixer) as opposed to Sodium Thiosulfate as the fixer. This is due to the iodine compounds that most modern films incorporate in the emulsion.
While there has been an exodus to TF4 in recent years, I have not found it beneficial to join the throng. I have measured the proportional stain using a densitometer and have found my stain density to be in keeping with what other TF4 users have indicate. Considering the cost of TF4 versus sodium or ammonium thiosulfate...it looks like a no brainer to me.
Just as others have stated, I have used Zone VI developer for a long time. I like it. I have discontinued using Zone VI fixer.
Doald-the fixer Fred Picker came in 2 varieties. The regular fixer had hardener in it. They also sold PLAIN fixer which is/was plain NaThiosulfate.
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I've used Zone VI paper developer for many years; the formulation is Kodak's old D-73. Suggestion: Use an alkaline fix like TF-4 - or, better yet use Ole's. Be sure to use water stop (not acid).
Zone vi chemistry
I have one comment and one question.
The Zone vi film/paper fixer w/hardener is similar to Kodak's F-6 low-oder fixer.
Hortense, I have the Morgan & Morgan PhotoLab Index from 1973 but don't see D-73 listed. Can you please list the chemical makeup here please. Thanks
D-73, as listed at the following URL:
Kodak D-73 Cold Tone Developer
Water (at 125F) 750.0 ml
Metol 2.8 grams
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous 40.0 grams
Hydroquinone 10.8 grams
Sodium Carbonate, anhydrous 75.0 grams
Potassium Bromide 0.8 grams
Water to make 1.0 liter
For use dilute 1 part stock to 2 parts water.
The author of the post above suggests that adding Benzotriazole, either as is or with reduced bromide, will make the developer colder-toned still.