Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,856   Posts: 1,582,974   Online: 1050
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Boston area
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,325
    Images
    26

    Peeling EFKE 120

    I wrote a while ago about a problem I had with the emulsion on EFKE 50 film in 120 literally peeling away from the base on rolls that I had developed some 3 months earlier. On the advice from another APUG'er (Thanks, Don Miller!) I wrote to John at J and C about the problem and then sent him a piece of the film. After sending both the film and the chemistry I used to the factory in Croatia, he finally got the word back that it seems to have been a matter of the hardener content of my fixer.

    I processed this film in Rodinal and fixed it with Sprint Record Speed Fixer, 1:4 with Sprint Record Hardening Alum Converter added (I believe) to the specs on the box. The doubt expressed there is a reflection of the fact that I share a darkroom in a school and somebody may have remixed the fix while I was out - don't think so, but it could have happened. All other film processed at the same time was fine - mostly HP5. No peeling.

    EFKE, through John, advised me that the R50 film, in particular, is delicate and needs careful handling in this. He suggested that I use a hardening fix, but that care in the mixing is very important.

    I thought I'd pass on the word - and thank John publicly at the same time. He went out of his way to solve a problem here for a small-time customer. It's true that it is in his interest to make sure that problems with the product he sells get solved, but I believe he put a whole hell of a lot more care and concern into this than most of the suppliers with whom I deal on a daily basis would have done, and I wanted to make sure people heard about it.

    Whitey Morange

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteymorange
    He suggested that I use a hardening fix, but that care in the mixing is very important.
    Good to hear that JandC takes care of their customers. I am a new customer having placed my first order recently. I bought some Efke 25 and exposed it, but have not developed it yet. What do you mean by "care in the mixing is very important"? Do you mean that the film in the fixer should be mixed gently or that care should be used to prepare the chemicals properly?

    Thanks, Michael

  3. #3
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Boston area
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,325
    Images
    26
    Michael,
    I think what he's telling me is that hardener is difficult stuff to judge with this film. I will reduce my concentration of hardener in the future and just be really careful with my wet negs. The 35mm version of the film has given me no problem at all and, though the sheet film is delicate, I've never had a problem and have heard of no problems like this from anyone else.

    To be fair, I'm the only one who seems to have had this problem with the 120! It is great film for a certain look, so go for it. Thousands of rolls have been done without incident, so just heed my call for careful formulation of the fixer and shoot away.

    Glutton for punishment and dedicated amateur that I am, I'm still buying it.

    Whitey

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Stavanger or Trondheim, Norway
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    771
    Images
    24
    Hmmm ... I've just shot & developed my first 4 rolls of Efke 25 (120). In two of the rolls, the film has apparently moved inside the backing paper (or was mispositioned to start with or something) so the first 4-5 frames are missing and I have a length of blank film at the end :-( . On the other hand, the tones (dev in Neofin Blue) are beautiful, so it seems worth persevering,

    Peter

  5. #5
    Donald Qualls's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    North Carolina, USA (transplanted from Seattle)
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,845
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete H
    Hmmm ... I've just shot & developed my first 4 rolls of Efke 25 (120). In two of the rolls, the film has apparently moved inside the backing paper (or was mispositioned to start with or something) so the first 4-5 frames are missing and I have a length of blank film at the end :-( .
    What kind of camera were you using? This sounds like something that could happen if the film were incorrectly positioned at loading with an automatic frame counter, of if the self-starting frame counter in a camera so equipped failed to correctly detect the start of the film.

    Can you examine the backing paper and see where the tape is/was? The tape strip should normally be about 7 cm ahead of the first number on the 6x4.5 framing track. If that's where it is on the rolls with the problem, it's a camera or loading problem.
    Photography has always fascinated me -- as a child, simply for the magic of capturing an image onto glossy paper with a little box, but as an adult because of the unique juxtaposition of science and art -- the physics of optics, the mechanics of the camera, the chemistry of film and developer, alongside the art in seeing, composing, exposing, processing and printing.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Stavanger or Trondheim, Norway
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    771
    Images
    24
    Hi Donald,

    It was a Contax 645. I've shot hundreds of rolls of Ilford, Fuji & Kodak film through the camera and this has never happened once, so it seems like an odd coincidence when it happens with 2 out of 4 rolls of Efke. The backing paper has been binned, but I'll have a look next time I shoot some (there's still plenty in the freezer).

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    601
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete H
    Hi Donald,

    It was a Contax 645. I've shot hundreds of rolls of Ilford, Fuji & Kodak film through the camera and this has never happened once, so it seems like an odd coincidence when it happens with 2 out of 4 rolls of Efke. The backing paper has been binned, but I'll have a look next time I shoot some (there's still plenty in the freezer).
    Efke film does not have the bar codes on the paper as some other films. In the Contax an automatic infrared system senses the bar code at the beginning of a roll of film and starts the frame counter at the proper place on the film.

    If you are using brands of film without bar codes you must line up the arrows on the backing paper with a white index mark on the insert before replacing it in the film magazine.
    Last edited by jandc; 02-28-2005 at 04:13 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #8
    noseoil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Tucson
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,898
    Images
    17
    Efke fixing. Do your film tests with a water stop bath, no need to have pin holes or acid problems. Water works fine, just be consistent. This film is easier to scratch than some others, so care in handling is a must. That havng been said, results are excellent.

  9. #9
    Whiteymorange's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Boston area
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,325
    Images
    26
    There was no problem with pinholes in my film, though I have had some spotting problems with the sheet film in 4x5 (not enough to make me stop using it yet.) The emulsion peeling was post development, post printing. It was noticeable first at the ends of the film exposed the most to air. The film affected was all processed within one week back in the fall.

    I have now gone to water stop, as you suggest, with almost all of my processing. Fill, agitate, dump - 4 times - then on to fix. The results are so nice when it works out that I am working hard to improve my handling of this stuff. I love the look of R50. When it doesn't work, I have to admit it's usually because I screwed up; not the film's fault at all. I'm a painter, used more to barging about until I get it right than to careful technical assessments and incremental experimentation my photo mentor's nightmare. But hey, I have fun and make some great images. My attitude is that if you're not having fun, you're doing it wrong.

    Whitey

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Stavanger or Trondheim, Norway
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    771
    Images
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by jandc
    Efke film does not have the bar codes on the paper as some other films. In the Contax an automatic infrared system senses the bar code at the beginning of a roll of film and starts the frame counter at the proper place on the film.

    If you are using brands of film without bar codes you must line up the arrows on the backing paper with a white index mark on the insert before replacing it in the film magazine.
    I always line up the arrows with the index mark - it's not that.

    Whitey, sorry for diverting your thread. Have you tried developing in Neofin Blue? Fine grain and beautiful tones - it's great. The film's definitely worth persevering with, despite its vulnerability to scratches and the vicious curl on the 120 format (maybe that's the origin of my loading problem ???).

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin