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  1. #11
    titrisol's Avatar
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    He overespoxed by 1 stop, shouldn;t he CUT the dev time instead of doubling it?
    I'd cut the time in 25%

    Quote Originally Posted by dr bob
    Your setting the Hp5 at 200 sounds as though you may have a slight over exposure, but maybe not. At any rate, I would develop for twice the “normal” time. This should give a 2-stop expansion to your 3-stop exposure. I’ve done this successfully several times.
    Mama took my APX away.....

  2. #12

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    Yeah really! He's downrated both films resulting in what could be considered an overexposure. Given that, he did exactly the correct thing. One of the prime "rules of thumb," if you will, is to allow a bit of overexposure for snow scenes. In some cases up to 2 stop of over exposure works well. Unless you are using a very precise spot meter, all the white in the scene will fool the meter. The snow get an exposure that will deliver something approximating middle grey and the subject matter winds up under exposed. Develop the film normally and you should be ok. If you are using a spot meter, the extra stop won't matter worth a darn.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by neville
    Thanks Jim, I'm going to process them in Rodinol tonight so I'll let you know how they turn out.
    It's pretty hard to overdevelop HP5+ in Rodinal. I think the best you might do is get more grain. The maximum contrast index you can expect to get with HP5+ and Rodinal is about 0.65, less with 1+50 dilution.

    The SBR should be narrow in a snow picture. You don't want the shadows to be really black. There is no point in printing a low contrast scene to make it "fit" the paper. Print it to look like the original scene. Print for the highlights instead of the shadows, so that you have a good white with a little texture.
    Gadget Gainer

  4. #14

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    Actually, you may well have underexposed your snow. That is, if you metered the snow directly going with your meter's "suggested" exposure, you now have a Zone VI snow rather than VIII (or more). Reading snow directly will inevitably give you a Zone V value (you had cut your ISO in half hence, your Zone VI). If such is the case, you now need to overdevelop your neg to N+2 or so.

    Rendering snow to look and feel like snow is (to me) the most difficult subject to correctly nail down. There line between "real" looking snow and getting that awful gray is really small. Good luck with it.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr bob
    Your setting the Hp5 at 200 sounds as though you may have a slight over exposure, but maybe not. At any rate, I would develop for twice the “normal” time. This should give a 2-stop expansion to your 3-stop exposure. I’ve done this successfully several times.

    I agree; your exposures are more-or-less "normal" for those films. Given the lighting conditions I would give at least an N+1 development or possibly N+2 to raise the highlight values, leaving the shadows relatively unaffected. Then you can further adjust contrast if necessary with different paper grades/contrast filters.

    Larry

  6. #16

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    finished developing

    Thanks for all comments. I exposed with a general meter reading, rather than reading off the snow. I used a reading like this because it was snowing heavily and contrast was very low. I overexposed by one stop because I wanted some detail in shadows, even though they were fairly well lit by all the snow round about. That was my reasoning for exposing by one stop both films. In the end, I developed as normal using Rodinal with bothe the HP5 and the FP4, and I got wquite good results - perhaps a little dense and slightly more grainy than I would have liked, but at least very printable. When I get used to the system and can work out how to uplaod pictures to the APUG gallery, I'll show what they look like. Mant thanks to everyone who contributed - it did help a lot in getting a balance of different approaches.

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